Replies

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Feb 20, 2005 06:10am | #1

   Try Woodcraft Supply. I've used grain filler for oak before. It's a bit of a pain because it's a fair amount of extra work but it looks good when done right. It leaves a nice uniforn golden color.

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

2. 
   bleubassplyr | Feb 20, 2005 06:12am | #2

   Here's the link.

   http://www.woodcraft.com/search/search.aspx?query=grain+filler

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

3. 
   RMillard | Feb 20, 2005 03:31pm | #3

   I like the oil grain filler sold by Constantine's ( http://www.constantines.com) It is very thick and must be thinned before use with either mineral spirits or naphtha. The naphtha speeds the flash time so I use it only on small areas or in a cold shop. No matter which solvent I use to thin it, I give it at least 3 day to dry before top coating. I think your oak will require two applications a day apart to achieve full filling of the pores.Also, I never apply the filler to raw wood, but instead over a thin barrier coat of shellac or at least oil. Other than a rubout, no step in finish does as much to make a truly professional finish as grain filling.

   Rob Millard

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 20, 2005 10:14pm | #4

   There are a couple of different types or grain fillers. Unless you have worked with them before, I recommend you get Jeff Jewitt's new book "Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing". It will give you all the info you need to know about the different types and how to use them.

   Howie.........
5. 
   IanDG | Feb 20, 2005 11:30pm | #5

   There is an excellent filler called TimberMate which can be used as a putty or thinned with water as a grain filler.<br>
   It's sold also as a filler for hardwood floors.

   IanDG

1. 
   mypaw1010 | Feb 21, 2005 04:35am | #6

   That should answer my question. That makes sense. Thanks. Mr.J

1. 
   JHarveyB | Feb 24, 2005 07:37am | #11

   Hi, Mr. J!
   It is important to try the filler and subsequent finishing steps on scrap before you do the real piece. We have been struggling with finish routines for a set of mahogany display cabinets, and ran into a bizarre problem with paste wood filler. I had some old stuff (tinted the wrong color) on hand, so tried it out on the mahogany (which previously had potassium dichromate in water applied to deepen the brown color of the wood). We then followed it with several coats of shellac. Seemed to work well, so I ordered a gallon of paste wood filler tinted to the right color from the paint store where we had gotten the wrongly colored batch. Luckily I tried it on scrap; it was a different brand (because the paint store owner had gotten fed up with the service provided by the first brand, and changed suppliers.) When I tried it out, the filler in each pore swelled up into a distinct bump! With the dichromate pre-stain, I couldn't sand the thing flat again. We eventually found a different store that carried the original brand, got a gallon, and took it to the original paint store for their tinting (which produced a somewhat different, but acceptable, color in the different product) and we were finally in business.
   That scrap can save you a lot of headaches!!!
   JHarveyB

6. 
   hammer1 | Feb 21, 2005 04:40am | #7

   This site has some good information on different fillers and how to use them.
   http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/fillers.shtml

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

7. 
   user-5880422 | Feb 21, 2005 08:43pm | #8

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

8. 
   Ardito | Feb 21, 2005 11:59pm | #9

   I like to use the Bartley grain filler.  I purchase mine from my local Woodcraft store.  You can also purchse from their website.  I like to thin my grain filler with Mineral Spirits.  I usually thin 1:1.

   Dark Magneto

9. 
   jazzdogg | Feb 23, 2005 10:51pm | #10

   The best I've used is an Enduro product available through Compliant Spray Systems. It's water-based, but unlike all of the other WB pore fillers I've tried, it's smooth and creamy, doesn't dry too fast, is easy to work, and doesn't leave the pores willed with conspicuous off-white or gray crud.

   My other favorite is oil-based and is available through Liberon suppliers under the brand name Star products.
   As with all other finishing processes, I find it is best to experiment with scrap before plunging forward and attempting to finish your completed furniture project relying solely on the manufacturer's instructions; unfortunately, these instructions are often written with ulterior motives, such as compliance with air quality mandates, as one of the primary concerns - this is why the labels of some finishing products say "No Thinning Required;" to reduce apparent VOC levels.

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.