I’m in the process of learning to do a quality lacquer finish. I’ve read a number reference material and have done some experimenting, but still have some questions that aren’t covered in the books. Specifically,I’ve seen pictures of and read where others are able to get a glass like finish to their work. I’m curious to know if a certain level of expertise with the spray finishing process is enough alone to be able to achieve this, or whether a certain amount of rubbing, or leveling off the finish, is “expected” of the process to accomplish that nice flat, glass like appearance.
In practice I’ve used only spray cans, I haven’t yet loaded up the hvlp sprayer as i want to get a better sense of what I’m trying accomplish. Anyway, in using the spray can, I have always ended up with some degree of orange peel. I have not been able to get a perfect glass like appearance with the spray can. Is is normal to expect some degree of orange peel or should i be striving for atleast a close to glass like finish just from spraying with the hvlp gun?
Replies
dp ,
Several aspects need to be within the normal ranges for it all to come together .
No , just being proficient at the art of spraying is not all you need to get the finish you desire, but it helps .
The temperature and more importantly the moisture content and the humidity of the air is paramount as well as the correct mixture or thinning if any .
Imo the prep work done to the wood to be sprayed is also key to a fine finish .
I use an Airless , I learned on a conventional cup gun . Hvlp and the newest turbine type of spray rigs are all capable of doing the job .
There is NO comparing a rattle can to a professional rig , period ! that's silly .
You can do a better job more efficiently with less effort with the big rigs .
I don't rub out the final top coat of finish Lacquer , if the prep is done right and the seal coats of whatever are sanded or rubbed smooth the last coat just melts into the base and leaves the flawless and smooth surface .
Rubbing out actually can look great but in reality takes a bit of the durability away .
regards dusty
Thanks Dusty. I think I'll load up the gun tomorrow and do some practicing. The weather's getting a bit cool, 55-60 degrees, any suggestions on where to start with in terms of adding thinner? I'm using the Behlen's brand
dp:
Several months ago, I started on making our kitchen cabinets. I elected to go with a lacquer finish. I had no experience spraying or with catalyzed lacquers!
Now, with a bit of experience under my belt, I can now get a glass-like finish. Here's what I do:
Sand the wood to 250 making sure all blemishes and tool marks are eliminated - hold the piece up at an oblique angle to make sure.
1. Apply catalyzed vinyl sealer (S-W CC-F20) and sand with 220.
2. Apply lacquer (S-W CC-F43) sand lightly with 220
3. Keep applying coats and sanding until the surface has a smooth, ground glass look. Do not try to get to this too quickly or you will rub through to the wood. I find three or four coats is usually sufficient.
4. Once you have the "ground glass look, you are ready to start rubbing out the finish. I do 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000 and then 4000.
5. Finish with silicone-free rubbing compound (I use an electric buffer for this). The polishing compound and then finally swirl remover. Body shops like wood shops abhor silicon so make sure they are "body-shop safe".
6. Stand back and admire your work!
After two coats of lacquer you get a pretty good finish, but this off-the-gun finish compares poorly to the rubbed out finish. However, I have noticed that the fifth coat of lacquer, after the earlier sanding comes pretty close to the hand rubbed one. I have put the two side by side and while you can see a difference, it is hard to tell. For my work I rubbed out, but for anything commercial, I don't think it would make sense and I cannot see anyone paying the cost of the extra work of rubbing out.
It took me about two months to get all this working correctly.
Regards,
Hastings
Thanks Hastings, I'll try your suggestions.
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