question on process of squaring up square/ rectangular pieces and gluing together? PLEASE help
spcoastie
| Posted in Project Plans/CAD Software on
Hi everyone! Hope someone can help me out… Q: How do i perfectly square up pieces of wood and what is the process when one end of the wood is crooked? i have a planer and a table saw but no jointer. once i get a jointer what would be the tricks/ process because this is driving me crazy =) thanks everyone!!
Replies
If by one end crooked you mean it's not perpendicular to a side, a jointer will not correct that. Using a square, set your table saw miter gauge perpendicular to the blade. Keep the same long edge (reference edge)against the miter gauge to cut the two ends. Rip the other long edge to make it parallel to the reference edge. Of course, this assumes the reference edge is straight.
There are a number of books that cover how to make a piece of wood four square, and how to use the table saw for precision work. A jointer probably comprises a triad with the table saw and planer for making pieces 4 square - it makes the edges straight and perpendicular to the reference face. It also makes the reference face straight and flat, if not wider than the jointer. The planer makes the 2nd face parallel to the reference face. But I'm just scratching the surface.
Oh, and to really answer the specific question about the wood you're tryiing to square up, we need to have a clear description of what it looks like.
Are you a paid subscriber to the FWW.com web site? If so, I'm sure there is at least one video available that demos the milling process.
If it is the ends that are bothering you then you should seriously consider a shooting board.
Once you learn to use it properly you'll be amazed at the results.
Coastie, it might be easiest to review the "normal" process of squaring up stock, and then learn how you can substitute for the missing jointer. After you cut to rough length, the general sequence of processing is (a) face-joint the board to produce a flat face; (b)edge-joint with the newly flat face on the bed of the jointer; (c)make the other edge parallel to the one you just edge-jointed and (d) plane the untouched face. There are a few tweaks to this sequence, take a read at this site for more details and which tools do what:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/squrstock.html Squaring the ends up doesn't work until you get the sides of the wood square and parallel.
OK, so you don't have a jointer, so what do you do? Well, you can use a hand plane. Or if you're tied to your power tools, you can face joint a couple different ways. One is to make a sled for your planer, onto which you mount the board with shims underneath such that it doesn't rock and roll as it goes through the planer. You're creating a flat reference surface on top, which you'll use later to rest on the bed of the planer to get the other surface flat and parallel. Your edge jointing can be done on the table saw or with a router by establishing a straight edge as a reference point.
Read the page I linked and gnash on it until it makes sense (I remember going through this anguish many years ago), and then the alternatives methods will make more sense to you.
I think FG meant under (b) to have the newly flattened face against the FENCE of the jointer . . . . so you get a 90 degree angle at the edge . . . .
Yep, you're right. And the
Yep, you're right. And the time-window for editing is over. Sheesh. Good thing I provided the link to Tom's site, eh?
I am waaaayyy to tired tonight to be trying to make sense.....
Welcome to the forum, Spcoastie. Making an accurate square cut depends on a few factors. First, you need an accurate square to tell you what's what. All squares are not necessarily square. You need to check the one you are using.
To use a square, you need to reference it to a straight edge. If the square is accurate but you put it on an edge that isn't straight, it won't tell you anything. One of the jointer's jobs is to make edges straight. All of your woodworking equipment has to be set up correctly and fine tuned so it makes accurate cuts. A jointer doesn't straighten anything if it isn't set up correctly and if the person using it doesn't know the proper way of operating it.
Since you are new here, we don't know if you know how to tune your table saw or what kind of saw you have. You can make accurate square cuts with the miter gauge on the table saw. It's essential that the miter slot is parallel with the blade. Depending on your saw, there are different ways to make the adjustment. Once the blade is in line with the miter way, you need to adjust the miter head and, perhaps, reset the miter head stops and pointer so that it is 90 to the blade. It is also common to need to fit the miter bar to the slots so there isn't any slop. You won't be able to get a square cut if you haven't done all of this. Remember to check under the miter head where the bar connects, sometimes this loosens up.
The miter head is small and slippery. If you add a straight, even thickness wooden bar to it and glue some sandpaper to that bar, you will have more support for your work and a non slip surface. If everything on the saw is perfect but the work piece moves, you are out of luck. You can also clamp stops to the bar to make accurate repeat cuts and you can clamp your work to the wood bar when necessary. Many of us make sleds to replace the miter head but you need to get your accuracy up to speed first.
Just as you need a straight edge on the work to hold the square on, you need a straight edge to hold against the miter gauge head. From both a safety and accuracy perspective, it's also necessary to have straight edges to go against the rip fence when making those cuts as well as against router table fences and even when using router bits with a guide bearing.
Just as you need an accurate square, you need some way to tell if things are straight. Sometimes, just sighting with your eye is enough, other times you may want to check with a known straight edge, back of a framing square, edge of a level, whatever you have.
There are a number of ways to straighten an edge without a jointer. It depends on what you have for tools and what you are straightening. Shorter boards can even be temporarily attached to a straight one and ripped on the saw.
Get back to us if you need help on making adjustments to your saw. I think a 6" engineers square is a shop must and not too expensive. I hold the board end and square up to the light and sight for any light getting through. A speck of dust under the square makes a difference as you will see. Once you get everything dialed in and the correct sharp blade, you shouldn't have problems. You can't ever let your guard down, though. Some adjustments may slip and wood accessories can move.
Wow! I dont even know where to start in thanking you all. But hey, THANK YOU! I did end up buying a jointer yesterday, but now when i get in the shop today i have several different approaches and options to look at it for squaring my pieces up. i intially tried posting some pics of the project but it was either not accepting a jpg file or the file was too big.
What i am trying to achieve is a wood mosaic look. In which, as you know, the pieces must be perfectlty square to prevent any gaps in the gluing process.
I really do appreciate the great feedback. Not a subscriber yet, but i think im sold on it now. Thanks!
hammer,
Amen.
eef
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