Hi,
I am building a coffee table with a frame top. This is a modified version of the Paolini Arts and Crafts coffee table from FW. I am using rails made of 7/8″ x 4″w x 45″ L and 7/8″ x 4″ x 24 W quater sawn oak for the top. I had to adapt my plans from the original set of plans, and I messed up the length of the long rails which should have been roughly 3″ longer so I could cut the tenons out of each end of the 7/8″ x 4″ x 45″ pieces. My original plan was to use mortise and tenons to connect the long rails to the end (shorter rails). The tenons would have been a part of the long rail and the mortise cut into the side edge of the short rails.
So my question is – will it be just as strong if I cut a mortise into the end grain of the long pieces and then insert/glue a tennon into that piece as well as into the mortise on the short rails? I realize that the cross section of the ends of the long rails is only 7/8″ x 4″, which is a rather small surface to use a router to plunge mortises into.
Its just that the quarter sawn oak is not cheap and I hate to start over, but it may be worth it if it won’t be sturdy.
thank you,
‘mark
Replies
Although I prefer traditional M&T
You will be just fine. A long grain to long grain glue line is stronger than the wood itself, woodworking 101
thank you Rob.
avoid the issue
If you only have one or two tenons to make, well, okay.
But if you go to slip tenons you will not only have to be concerned about did I leave enough length for the tenon, but your mortises are repeatable and you make all your 'tenons' at the same time to match your mortise. Plus you fo get a wee bit of adjustability at the joint on assembly that you wouldn't have with a 'perfect' tenon.
What would you do faced with over 50 (as in fifty) tenons needed in a bookcaes? If interested ask and I will drag up a sample real bookcase that was easy with slip tenons.
Forrest
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