Replies

1. 
   Senomozi | Nov 06, 2007 09:14pm | #1

   Hello Francois,

   Your concern is well founded about the solid wood + plywood approach.  The solid wood top is wide enough on a vanity that you must account for wood movement.  Hence the 1 1/4" solid wood panel is the better option.  Another option would be to use 3/4" plywood with a 1 1/4" edge banding to make it appear as if the top is thicker than it really is.  With plywood no need to worry about wood movement.

   All that that being said, using wood for the top of a vanity is not a common choice given the amount of moisture the top will be subject to.  Is there a specific reason you made this choice? 

   Regards,

   Senomozi

1. 
   ffournier | Nov 06, 2007 09:24pm | #2

   Hello Senomozi,

   Thanks for the quick reply. In my head I figured that a solid wood top would be nicer looking than a hardwood veneered plywood top. Although if carefully chosen, a veneered plywood can be nice looking.

   If I were to go the plywood route I could then glue a 3/4" atop a 1/2" sheet of plywood to get my 1 1/4" top. I have already built the 2 bases so I want to keep the same final height. Also, the top is for a double vanity and should measure 23" X 72" (the 2 bases are 30" wide).

   Thanks,

   Francois

2. 
   wellis | Nov 06, 2007 10:01pm | #3

   A 3/4" veneer is not likely to be a good choice.  The movement issue is no different from that in a table top and basically you can provide for that with one of the various table top clips.

   The use of an edge banding can save some wood, but if the ends have a cross grain component (on other than ply) then expansion must be accounted for in the attachment methodology you use.

   Moisture is an issue in any bath installation.  Varnish all sides of any component.  Avoid MDF. 

   Doing something risks making a mistake.  Doing nothing is a mistake.

   Bill

1. 
   ffournier | Nov 06, 2007 10:18pm | #4

   Thanks for the reply Bill,

   I plan on attaching the top to the bases with z-clips that allow for seasonal movement of the wood. I also want to finish all sides of the top because of the high humidity atmosphere. I hadn't though enough about cross grain problem with the edge banding so your reply was dead on. I will take that issue into consideration when attaching the edge banding on the sides (where cross grain will be). I'm nom leaning towards making the top out of 6/4 hardwood planed down to 1 1/4" thick.

   Francois

3. 
   mrbird90 | Nov 07, 2007 01:51am | #5

   I have made 3 solid tops for bathroom vanities for clients and those with children do not stand up. One top had 4 coats of spar varnish but with 6 children in the family the top was in bad shape after 3 years. I would go with a solid man made surface such as corian etc. Only my two cents worth. Have to admit the solid wood tops look great when new.

4. 
   colebearanimals | Nov 07, 2007 04:12am | #6

    

          Wood tops are almost impossible to keep looking good. If it isn't too big how about using real stone? Natural materials can't be beat.

                                                      Paul

5. 
   hammer1 | Nov 07, 2007 05:02am | #7

   You don't want to glue a solid wood top to a similar size piece of plywood, The wood won't be able to move as a unit and will pop up, crack on joints and do other nasty things. Gluing up two pieces of plywood can also cause issues, mainly in a severely cupping top.

   Whether using solid wood or plywood, you only need to build up around the perimeter with strips that are wide enough to either sit on top of the cabinet or narrow enough to lap down over, depending on your design. With solid wood, it's easy enough to incorporate the joint between the top and perimeter as a step in a molded edge of some type. Attach it to allow movement on the ends of the top.

   You can do the same with plywood. Run a strip underneath, around the perimeter to get the thickness. You can also run a couple strips cross ways where support is needed. Add a wood edge to hide the plywood edges. It can be something simple, just glued on or something nicely molded and rabetted on. In either case, the entire top does not have to be a full 1 1/4" thick, it just has to look that way. If you want to make it solid with thicker lumber, that's fine, too. Don't try to glue up two thicknesses of lumber, though. That will work the same as plywood and solid lumber.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   ffournier | Nov 07, 2007 03:33pm | #8

   Thanks to all for the input. I will have to put more thought into this.

   Francois

1. 
   ChipTam | Nov 07, 2007 04:38pm | #9

   I'll second the advice from those who thought wood for a vanity top is a bad idea no matter how you do it.  I used red oak (a poor choice) for a top on a downstairs vanity many years ago.  Despite multiple coats of poly on both sides, the top looked terrible after just a few years.  On an upstairs bathroom, which gets lighter use, I put on a walnut top (a better choice of wood) several years later.  It still looks nice but that is with light use, no kids, and constant attention which allows no water to remain on the surface.  If there is a next time, I'll choose a different material for a vanity top.

   ChipTam   

6. 
   TWG | Nov 07, 2007 09:33pm | #10

   Third vote to avoid the wood top.  After making two vanities with wood tops I will not do it again.  Everything except a plastic like bar top finish will likely need to be re-done every few years.

   Once the finish on each breaks down again I will be switching to Quartz, Marble or Granite.

1. 
   ffournier | Nov 07, 2007 10:43pm | #11

   Thanks again to all,

   I think that my mind is pretty well made up not to make a solid wood top for my bathroom vanity. I guess that now I will look into other possibilities.

   Francois