Questions about a 16″ Makita bandsaw
jhounshell
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I have the opportunity to purchase a Makita 16″ bandsaw for $250. I know the seller very well. Her husband purchased the saw new, maybe 6 or 7 years ago, then soon moved out of the States and never returned. She says it was used only once or twice. I have no reason not to believe her.
So, here are my concerns. How hard will it be to find replacement parts if needed? How good of a machine is this thing to begin with? Is it worth the investment?
Any input here will be helpful.
Thanks!
Jeff
Replies
See photo. This looks to be the same model of bandsaw I am talking about, in case you can't place it. Might actually be a bit older than I originally thought.
Bump
This bandsaw looks like it's basically a resaw bandsaw. Similar to a Hitachi I used for awhile years ago ( 10-15 ). That saw work well but I have no idea how it compares to saws that are available today in either cost or performance. Try contacting Makita or a Makita service center for parts availability. Good luck
Paul
Judging by the picture this machine is built like a brick you know what.
Buying Makita is like buying Toyota, trouble free machines.
Plus, for $250 how can you go wrong ?
C.
That saw is worth a lot more than $250. Buy it! As another poster said, it was built to resaw. Can't help you with your other questions, but a call to Makita is a good idea.
Bill
Well, I bought the saw last night for $200. It's a big, stout sucker. Going to take some cleaning up, it is dirty and the table is pretty rusty. Will probably need new tires, and I will need to replace the blade. But the motor seems strong, and it has huge clearance and a very large table. I figure for the price, it is worth giving it a shot. We'll see how it works out. Thanks for everyone's input.Jeff
May not need new tyres, Jeff,I'd fire it up and see how it works. If the blade's just rusty, it'll wear off pretty quickly. The blade's a resaw blade and the saw looks solid. The tyres are probably industrial ones from neoprene that will wear out before they perish (about 10 years heavy use in an industrial shop = a lifetime's use by a hobbyist)Don't get caught up in the trap of replacing everything before you start it up. Use it and then repair if necessary. It may not be 'broke,' so it may not need 'fixin'Cheers,eddie
Edited 7/20/2007 3:47 pm by eddiefromAustralia
I'll second eddie's comment, just clean it off and put it to work, there is no reason to replace the blade or tires unless there is something actually wrong. The blade is a heavy duty resaw blade and will be moderately expensive to buy.
John W.
The saw sold for about $1400 Canadian when I bought mine in the late 70's. For what I needed a regular bandsaw would have been a better choice but those big teeth on the blade grabbed me! I didn't realize they weren't made to use narrow blades. They were for resawing lumber and I think were meant to be job site saws for the timber framers in Japan. I was never satisfied with it when trying to cut hardwoods with the original blades, but some of the newer after market blades meant for resawing might work better.The factory motor on your saw has been replaced and the belt guard is missing (it was held on by the stud near the pulley). The original was a 3 horse universal motor (guts were the same as their routers) with a fixed gear box to reduce the speed, hung off the side of the frame opposite the table. The combination made for some ear splitting work. I replaced mine with a 1 1/2 induction motor and saved my ears some wear and tear. The blade guide were made of some kind of black plastic (perhaps phenolic) and if they are no longer available you can make serviceable replacements from hardwood. Soak them in some motor oil and they will last longer.I bought some replacement guides from Carter but the brackets they recommend to attach the lowers won't work on mine so I'll have to make up a bracket to fit them (someday). You'll loose a few inches of cutting height when you fit the upper guides.The tires are bonded to the wheels and were not sold separately. You had to by new wheels from Makita if the rubber was shot. The rubber is crowned on both wheels. If the tires aren't shot but only grooved it may be possible to reface them by carefully holding a sander while someone rotates them for you. There are companies that re-rubber feed rollers that may be able to do the same with the wheels.I have the manual and parts list (1977 version for the 2116 model), if you want I could photograph them or go to a friend's and scan them for you sometime this weekend.Edited to add:
I looked at your picture again and there should be a slotted ramp with rubber seals under the table that went around the blade to deflect the sawdust from getting between the blade and lower wheel.
Edited 7/20/2007 5:51 pm by QCInspector
You really hit the nail on the head there. First of all, the photo I posted is not the actual saw I purchased. It is a photo of a very similar saw, I found that photo on the 'net.My saw is almost exactly the same, except the motor sits behind the lower wheel, not to the side as shown in the photo. It does have a plate on the side that says model 2116. This saw I have is wired 110. I assume it is the original motor.The tires do seem to be bonded to the wheels, so if I can get away without replacing them, I will certainly do so. The blade on my saw is about an inch wide, and has many fine, small teeth. I still think a good Timberwolf blade would be a good upgrade.What I have not figured out are the two adjustment wheels on the upper right side of the saw. They must be a tensioning mechanism, but I have not figured them out yet. The blade guard is metal, but I am having difficulty getting it to raise more than a couple inches. I need to work on that.It only has one bearing, not the typical guides you see on new saws. And there is no lower bearing or guides. My saw does have the ramp under the table with rubber seals, but the rubber is hard now. Dunno what to do about that.If you could photocopy that manual and mail it to me, I would be forever in your debt. E-mail me for my address. [email protected].Thank you very much!Jeff
<<My saw is almost exactly the same, except the motor sits behind the lower wheel, not to the side as shown in the photo. It does have a plate on the side that says model 2116. This saw I have is wired 110. I assume it is the original motor.>>Either your saw is a later model and differs from mine or it was changed by someone. The original was a squarish (approx 6" x 6" x 10" if memory serves) thing with a pair of on/off buttons on top and it was mounted at the same height as the pulley on the outside of the saw frame. It was easily reached while standing in front of the saw on your left. I think they were mounted on the side of the frame to keep the sawdust out of the motor's brushes and windings. Mine was a 110 volt motor, and they may have come in 220 volt here too, but I can't remember if that was available when I bought mine.<<What I have not figured out are the two adjustment wheels on the upper right side of the saw. They must be a tensioning mechanism, but I have not figured them out yet.>>The larger hand wheel on top is for tensioning the blade. The smaller lower is for tracking the blade.<<It only has one bearing, not the typical guides you see on new saws. And there is no lower bearing or guides. My saw does have the ramp under the table with rubber seals, but the rubber is hard now. Dunno what to do about that.>>There was only the one bearing behind the blade on the top guide, none under the table. The side guides were made of the black plastic I mentioned in the earlier post. A small wing bolt and washer held each guide in place using the hole on either side of the upper guide assembly, and either side on the underside of the table itself. Below table guides weren't used if the table was tilted. They work well enough with the 1", 2", & 2 3/8" blades Makita sold for the saw. They weren't so hot with narrow blades because they wore away quickly leaving the blade to flex. The rubber in the ramp can be changed with anything similar. Inner tubes are probably close enough and it won't be the end of the world if you don't replace them.I'll photo copy the manual and parts list when I go to work next week and send them once I figure out how to work the envelope and stamp thingies. ;)
2116 Makita
I also need this manuel. Just purchased this bansaw and no manuel with it. Would appreciate it very much.
Looks a little like my Hitachi B600 resaw. I use 3 inch wide stellite or carbide tipped blades. It has the 3hp gear reduction universal motor as mentioned. You got a heck of a deal for $200.
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how to dowmload manual for a model 2116
What do I do to download a manual for a moel 2116 Makita Bandsaw
how to dowmload manual for a model 2116
What do I do to download a manual for a moel 2116 Makita Bandsaw
Just curious
Her husband moved out of the country and never returned?...
I can understand leaving a wife.. but a nice new bandsaw? I dunno....
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