questions about fences on a table saw
So earlier today I received this answer to a question about ripping soft maple from Ralph-
Some folks also like to use a short fence for ripping, or an short auxiliary fence clamped to their regular fence. The idea is to end the auxiliary fence at the arbor, so there’s nothing holding the board against the back half of the blade
So after years of casual use of table saws I have some question. But first – my current table saw has 2 different fences that can be mounted at two different locations. One is 24″ long, it can be laid flat on it’s side so it come off the table about .75″ or it can be mounted on it’s edge and be about 3″ tall. It is extruded aluminum and the bracket that holds it also allows for it to be adjusted so the length from the feed in end can extend in towards the blade and beyond a bit. So if I want the out feed end to end at the arbor I just slide it and lock it. Can rip up to about 10″ wide only.
The second fence is 40″ long and has a wood face on the fence. The positioning from in feed to out feed is fixed with about 8″ extending beyond the arbor. But I can set it up to be about 24″ from the blade.
So which one is better? Do I use each fence for certain types of rips? I do have a sliding table on one side of the saw. I have typically used the longer fence all the time, just thinking that longer is better (isn’t that what we have always been told) but based on Ralph’s comments about using a short fence for ripping I am think that ripping boards with a short fence makes sense while perhaps using the longer fence is more practical or just better when cutting sheet goods.
There has to be a proper answer to these design features for this saw.
Tim
Replies
I've used short rip fences and I don't like them. Kickback isn't an issue if you know what causes it. I'd much rather watch my rip stay tight to the long fence until it's completely past the blade and on the outfeed table. European folks are used to short fences. I would say it's more of a personal preference. I wouldn't want a short fence if using a dado set, which Europeans seem to be afraid of, maybe that's why.
What you really should concentrate on first is tuning your saw properly. It doesn't take much effort, and when your saw is properly tuned to eliminate issues and concerns of the nature that you describe, the saw will operate more safely, and with better all around results.
Tune your saw, and then choose any fence that is accurately repeatable, and one that YOU are comfortable using.
My first table saw, 23 years ago, was a worm drive skill saw with guard removed, plunged thru and mounted upside down to a piece of plywood. My fence was a jointed 2X4 clamped at both ends. It was all I could afford at the time, and it worked just fine for getting me started.
Jeff
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=powertools&file=articles_108.shtml" You might find the article linked to above useful regarding the subject of short set rip fences. I confess an interest as I made a small contribution. Slainte.
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