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Large, full-size doors require rail tennons which would be easy enough to cut using a dadoe blade attachment to a radial arm saw. Since I don’t have a RAS and my chop saw won’t accomodate a dadoe, I would like to know what other techniques might be used. (I don’t have room to accomodate the rail tennon cutting on the table saw ). Also, does anyone have any experience in making doors and door frames with a round top profile?
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Replies
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If you can't cut tenons on a radial arm saw or a tablesaw, then you can either cut them by hand (though I'd advise practicing on some scrap first, if you take this route), or you can rough cut them on a bandsaw and clean them up with a block plane.
Regarding your other question, yes, I've made doors and jambs with curved tops, what do you want to know?
*hadn't thought of rough cutting door rail tennons on the band saw but it sounds easier than hand cutting. Thanks for the idea. On the other question(s): I have been asked to reproduce an exterior paneled door with a round top profile - including a rather sturdy door frame. The door will be placed in a rock wall between garden areas and have to support some weight. The door frame is 1.75 in thick, 5.5 in wide. I was proposing to build it as a laminate of 1/4 in. thick boards - steaming the boards in a box and bending them around a form with home made clamps. A lot of trouble. Any ideas on alternative methods? Ever use wacky wood for something like this? Also, the round shape of the door top is a bit of a problem. I was proposing to cut and laminate several arched pieces to form a composite. Attaching to the vertical styles at the bottom of the curve is a problem. Don't know what to do there but will probably try to mortise and tennon with God's help. Incidentally, the door will be painted so there is some flexibility in construction methods and materials.
*I would not use wacky wood...I doubt its rated for exterior use. I would laminate around the form as you suggest using a good waterproof glue (not Titebond II), such as urea-formaldahyde. Use sufficiently pliant lam's, the more the better and springback will be less of a problem. You could avoid strip laminating by stack laminating. You do this by making the top, curved rail out of several pieces of wood mitred (say 3 or 4) and sandwhich these in stack of three, ea of 1/3 the 1.75" thickness. Offset the joints between the alternating sandwhichs, clamp, cure and set up your router on a trammel to cut the radii, or alternately, use a template and a guide bearing bit. Insofar as the tenons, I generally cut mine on the table saw flat side down using a dado blade...if thats not an option, try using a router or, as previously suggested, hand saw them.
*Sorry about the belated reply, I've been out of the loop for a while. I agree with Fred's advice against using wacky wood (3/8" lauan plywood), if I understand you correctly that this door jamb will have to carry some weight (which, generally is not a good idea--jambs usually fit under headers that carry the weight). I have used 3/8" lauan as core material, doubled up, then laminated either side with two layers of 1/8" poplar bending ply, and gotten pretty good results at minimizing springback.Regarding the top curved rail, I'd just use clear 8/4 lumber, milled oversize, cut the tenons, shape the curve along the bottom edge, glue up the door, then cut the top curve after assembly. (Stiles should run the full height of the door.)
*You can cut tenons very easly using a router. Lay the board flat,and cut all but the end of the tennon so your router has something to ride on, then cut the end off where you have not routed. Jack
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