Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 26, 2005 09:23pm | #1

   Can't you glue and tack some small strips of boards on the back?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   bill_bryan | Dec 26, 2005 11:49pm | #2

   Isn't that kind of cheating? ;-)

   Besides, I'm going to build a router table later this year after some more immediate projects are complete. There, you want a recessed insert of Lexan or phenolic, in a very thick table. They don't make phenolic in 3/4" thicknesses, to my knowledge.

   I just can't help but think there's an easy way to rout a square recess with rounded corners, if the whole "minimalist router table" can be built in 20 minutes!
   OK, son, hand me the plywood stretcher... Bill Bryan

1. 
   QCInspector | Dec 27, 2005 03:40am | #3

   Isn't that kind of cheating? ;-)Nope it's called an alternate method and a good one at that.To make a square hole with round corners. You need to make a template, use your router with a straight bit, and use two guide bushings.Make the template out of plywood or any suitable material with a hole sized to take into account the size of the guide bushing. And clamp to the piece you want a route through.Make your first passes inside the pattern with a straight bit and a guide bushing just large enough to go over the bit. Cut deep enough for your insert to sit flush when you're done.Make your second set of passes with a large guide bushing and take progressive cuts until you're through the top. Then you can take off your templateThe resulting square hole will have rounded corners the size of your bit, and a step that your insert will sit over. The width of the step is dictated by the difference of the radii between the two bushings.The first and second sets of passes are not critical as to order. If you don't have guide bushings and your router has a round base. Make the template large enough to account for the entire base and use a large and small diameter bit. The principle is the same.Phenolic materials are available in many thicknesses, way beyond three quarters of an inch. For instance. I've seen Micarta 3 inches thick that was used to make forms to shape aircraft parts over. You really don't want too thick a piece to use as an insert because you lose depth of cut.I wish I had my issue of Fine Woodworking but usually takes a couple weeks at least. After I see signs of it here on this site before it hits my mailbox. The downside of living north of the border. Have fun making your tables.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 27, 2005 07:07am | #4

   Bill, Just make a shallow picture frame shaped square tacked to a thin panel The router is then placed into the shallow opening and rotated clockwise to cut out the bottom section

   This will be your template which you tape or tack to the table to rout out the space for the widest part of the recess.

   Just rout down half the thickness of the table. This 'rabbet' will become the lip.
   To rout out the bottom all the way through, Add four 1/4" filler pieces to your template inside the four origanal strips to cut the smaller square thru cut.

   If you use a straight 1/2" router bit and have a 6" router base, the dimensions between the sides of the frame needed, will have to be wider by 5-1/2" than your sacrifical board. No bearings needed. No plunge needed.

   The sacrifical inserts can be made using the same method, but require a wider picture frame. As you enter the material,do so gradually on an incline and 'ride' along the frame and progressively ease down the router to the depth required.

   This may sound difficult, but after a bit of practice,(On scrap wood) you'll become a 'PRO' Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 12/26/2005 11:10 pm ET by Steinmetz