I bought a Drill Grinding Guide from Lee Valley Tools ( http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32965&category=1,43072,43086&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID= ) and have been sharpening a 1/4″ twist bit. It’s just for practice until I buy a finer grinding wheel.
The bits are ground using the flat side of the wheel. When the wheel starts up, I can see what may be a problem with the flat side: It is either (a) not perfectly flat, or (b) not perpendicular to the spindle. Jako advised against dressing the side, so should I buy a wheel from one of those fancy sharpening systems where you’re supposed to use the flat side?
Come to think of it, these bits just need retouching, not major shaping. What about using a shopmade wheel of plywood, with a disk of sandpaper glued to one of its flat sides?
Janet
Replies
I have one of these things sitting in the drawer collecting dust I did try to use it and found I could use the face of the wheel with fair results. But it was a major fiddle to get right. I picked up a drill doctor and sharpened all my drill bits (about 200 dull bits)in about 3 hours. 90% cut like new, the other 10%? I think I was getting dull!!
I just do it by hand. On the face of fine grind grit grinding stone. Usually takes less that 30 seconds to one. Usually last a long time unless I am drilling stainless steel.
Nigel,
Is the Drill Dr. worth the asking price? When I saw them advertised on TV, I wondered how many new drill bits I could buy for the cost of the Drill Dr.
Any down side?
Jazzdogg
it's quick en easy try it you will like it
The drill grinding guide is from a German company. The leaflet was in German, English, French, and Italian. On the chance that the instructions lost something in the translation, I used Babelfish to translate the German instructions into English.
Babelfish is a useful program but not always accurate. Part of the German text was,
I think it is saying to grind the bit by turning bolt D slowly and in small increments. Somehow it got translated as,
Janet
Its by far the easiest system I have used so far, save buying new! Not cheap as in low $$$ but you might not ever but another drill bit! I have a set of drills from MAC tools (far from cheap) and they cut beautiful from new and the drill doc has resharpened the most used like new. No regrets.
Not cheap as in low $$$ but you might not ever but another drill bit!
Except for those itty-bitty ones that always seem to break or get lost at the most inopportune moment!
Thanks for the heads-up!
I originally planned to touchup twist bits by hand, but in Leonard Lee's book indicated that that was a sure way for beginners to wreck the bits. So I decided to buy the Eclipse sharpener that he recommended (over the one that his company sells!), but couldn't find one anywhere on the Internet.
My practice bit is sharp on the edges, but is hard to start. It doesn't want to stay in place.
Janet
My dad who is now 92 just picks up a dull bit and zip, zip, zip, on the grinder by hand has a sharp bit. After hours of trying to "copy" him, with him watching, I never could get it . Close but not there!! With the drill doctor now I got it.
Hi Janet, Usually the reasons for difficult starting after hand sharpening a twist drill are :
1 Wrong grind angle ,I seem to remember 118degs
2 Uneven grind resulting in to wide or an eccentric tip
3 Most often, no back relief behind cutting edge
Check
Lee 's exhausting book on sharpening
Lifes a grind then you die!!! :-)
The itsy bitsy easy to break drill bits. I once bought a dozen of each small size from harbor frieght. I don't think I've ever had a 1/16" bit get dull on me. Haven't bought one in years, and a dozen cost less then one good new bit. Was surprised at how well these drill. Larger sizes I pay more for better bits. I'd love a drill doctor. A guy at work offered to let me borrow his once. I said maybe later. Two weeks later he no longer worked here. Opps.
I finally got myself a "Drill Doctor" as well, and like you I sharpened every dull bit I could find the first time I took it out of the box. This is a really great piece of equipment. I really like the fact that once you've used it, it's very repeatable. You don't have to relearn the thing every time you use it! I was so impressed that I ordered the large chuck and what I think will be a lifetime supply of diamond wheels just in case they stop making them!!
Janet -
I use my home made vertical belt sander. I set the angle of the support bed to about 30 degrees below horizontal and hold the bit at about 22 degrees to the belt (left from perpendicular). The cutting edge of the bit should be held at 90 degrees from the direction the belt runs. I have a line marked on the support bed at 22 degrees. Holding the bit steady and at 22 degrees, I move it back and forth across the belt in about a 1/2" swath. Do not rotate the bit while running it back and forth. About 5 seconds per edge is all that's needed once you get the hang of it. Takes a little eye practice to get the faces the same width.
Cocobolo and IPE really dulls drill bits fast!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
Janet Is the stone wobling as it rotates? If so look for the card (or heavy paper )labels either side of the stone to be rucked up under the arbour washers .This sometimes causes wobble.Take it off and reseat it .Eccentricity on the circumference ,you just dress off as you are undoubtably aware.Remember the left arbour nut is a left hand thread
get a drill doc.
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