Quick question about bandsaw blades
I own a 14″ Grizzly G0457 Bandsaw.
Resently, I tried to put on a 5/8″ thick band saw blade that I ordered from Rockler ( then redirected it to Olsen ) that was the length that I normally use : 106″. The blade will not tension very much. If I max out the tension on the bandsaw to the 3/4″ marker on the scale the blade still slides around on the wheels.
Having said this- I also ordered a 1/2″ blade on that same order (same type etc) and this one won’t tension to around the amount I am used to for my normal 1/2″ blade (previously using Timberwolf.)
The blades in question are OlsenAll Pro blades. I normally do not use these blades and thought that I would give them a try when I ordered them.
Does anyone know anything I should know about these blades? The blade kerf on the Olsen blades is larger than the one on the previously used blade.
I took a string and looped it around both of the new blades then measured the string and as far as I can tell they could be 106″ in length– however, it is difficult to get an exact measurement with just a string-if these blades are slightly the wrong length- (say over by a 1/2″ or less) is that enough to throw off the tensioning as much as it appears to be?
I wanted to get some opinions before I contact Rockler- I double checked my order and it was in fact for 106″ blades.
Any help/comments would be appreciated.
Ralph
Replies
You probably thought of this but have you tried putting one of the old blades back on the saw? If an old blade has the same problem now then it is not the new blade's fault and something has changed in the set up of the bandsaw itself. Also you might take the string used on the new one and see if an old blade is the same circumference (I know I spelled that one wrong) It could be that 106" from company "A" is longer than 106" from company "B".
Blades
I put the old blade back on and it fits like a charm. Also, I normally use a 106" timberwolf 3/8" blade and that also fits well. All I can think of is that maybe the new blades both got welded too long?? However, dispite this, I wound the string around the new blades and they also seem to be 106" or not that far off... I guess my question really is this:
Would a small error in the length of the new blades constitute enough of a problem on the 5/8" blade that it would not allow the band saw to tension it to the correct degree? What is the margin for error on such things? Both the new 5/8" and 1/2" OlsenAll pro blades are having the same problem.
Thanks-
Ralph
Compare Blades
You might be able, with a couple extra pair of hands, to put one of the Timberwolf blades back to back with one of the Olsen blades to see if they are the same circumference. Alterntively, will one of the Timberwolf fit within one of the Olsen?
Bad Blades
If your saw worked fine before, then the new blades are not right. My 14" with riser takes a 105" blade. I thought 3/4" would be a fun size to play with. Ordered 3 from my usual source. All 3 had bad welds. Got them replaced with 1/2", but what a lot of work. Worst part was I started questioning my machine setup not the blades.
You can put the old blade on and tension just to where it is just snug enough that you cannot move it off the tire. Find a convenient point on the tension indicator and mark it. Do the same with the new blade. There should be a difference.
Or, lay the old blade on the floor, teeth up and lay the new blade over it on the outside. If the new one is longer, you will have your proof.
Or take them to a blade sharpening service and have them confirm the length. Then they can break and re-weld for you. Send the bill to the supplier. I did this and got 3 new blades.
Your specification sheet indicates an acceptable blade length of 105 3/4" to 107 1/4". That is quite a lot of blade length tolerance.
Don
Bad Blades
This is what has me tearing my hair out....
Today I e-mailed Grizzly to confirm that, in fact, the G0457 accepts 105 3/4" -107 1/4" blades. By there response I understand that it will accept these sizes but I don' t know if accept and tension to a proper amount (able to use) means the same thing....
The person who replied to my query from Grizzly also stated to put the blade on the floor and mark the spot where the wield touches the floor with tape. After this he said to roll the blade until the wield touches the floor again. After doing this I arrived upon a length of 106 1/2" . Again- this all seems to be making me feel like I am crazy- to me it seems that a 1/2" difference is not that big of a deal (admittedly I am not a band saw expert)
I did notice that when I (again for the 5th or 6th time) put on the 1/2" Olsen Blade and spun it on the band saw wheels with my hand, that it was tracking off center from the crown of the top wheel. I adjusted the top wheel so the new blade tracked in the middle of the wheel like my old 1/2" blade and STILL was unable to get a tension that I could use. After this and the thing with rolling the blade on the floor I had to just walk away from the shop for a while.
I suppose the next step is to ask Olsen about this and see what they have to say. I really don't think it is so much the fact that these blades aren't working that has got me worked up as is the fact it has stalled out a current project because I never tested these blades when I first got them. They sat there for a couple of months until I needed them and then failed to deliver after I had no spares but these on hand.
Ralph
Ralph
Blade Tension
Ralph,
Lets think about this for a minute.
The starting point for tension is the same for any blade. Increasing tension only compresses a spring. The actual amount of stretching that occurs is quite small. The tension gauge does not start registering until the spring start compressing.
The starting point for this compression should be able to occur anywhere in that 105 3./4" -107 1/4" range.
You should be able to run a 1/2" blade @ the 3/8" mark with no problem at all. - if the spring is of good quality. If not, replacement springs are usually available from Highland Woodworking, Woodcraft and Peachtree to name a few. Iturra and Carter are the brands. They are yellow and have a lot more compression available.
I have de-tensioned my saw and run it on minimal tension without big issues on 2" and thinner stock with the heavier yellow spring.
But, even if your spring is shot, you should be able to tension the blade up to the point of the 107 1/4" mark. You would just not have the shock absorbency of the spring, and you would achieve maximum tension faster - almost immediate - I think!
Don
PS.
1.When you tension the blade are you compressing the spring all the way or relying on the accuracy of the gauge?
2. Is the tensioning mechanism at maximum or are the threads on the rod binding? The threads on my first rod were really weak and galled up badly.
Blades
I am compressing the spring all the way. I slightly past 3/4" (max on the scale) and it will turn no more.
The threads don't appear to be binding.
I have successfully run a 106" woodslicer and 106" timberwolfs in the past.
Tommorow I am going to go out there and mess with it some more. I had to take a day break from the whole thing.
Ralph
Spring issue
Ralph,
If your spring is compressed all the way at 3/4" then you need to replace the spring.
You could try to negotiate a return of the Olsen blades and stick with what works. If you cannot return them, see if you can find a shop that will cut 3/4" out of the blade and r-eweld it (or them).
Don
'Blade' problem
Hi Ralph... I've run into the same problem with a Delta BS and a supplier who sent me a batch of blades that were too long.. Yes, the blade is cut too long. An easier fix can be done in a few minutes. With the blade on the saw and a small flashlight at hand, try to tension the blade. We both know that it will not go to the tension you want. CAREFULLY check the axel for the upper wheel. You will find that it is hitting the top of the hole in the sheet metal guard, The reason you don't hear any rubbing is because the axel does not rotate. Take the blade off and remove the four screws that hold the upper guard in place. Now lift streight up. The upper axel assembly will lift out of the tracks it sits in. Elongate the top of the guard hole with a file, grinder, metal nibbler or tool of choice. You just have to remove 1/4 to 3/8 inch of metal so the upper axel assembly can raise that extra bit. Yea, the blades are still too long, but the axel assembly will now be able to go up that extra bit and you'll get the tension you need. Re-assemble and you're in business.
The reason I did not send the batch of blades back is that this was for a school shop and the supplier (lowest bidder)probably had hundreds of blades cut too long. They came in unmarked boxes and were most likely made 'off-shore' where someone translated inch length to metric length and rounded the measurement UP a bit. It took me an hour to find the problem and 15 minutes to cure it.
Resolved
After MUCH stressing out about this problem I have found the solution and am posting it in the event that someone else who owns a G0457 from Grizzly runs into the same thing.
The lock collar on the threaded screw that drives down on the upper assembly platform had slipped down about 5 threads on the screw while I was tensioning the knob/screw after I got my 3/4" blade. (guess I cranked it too hard) This caused the assembly to ride lower than normal at the zero reading on the manufactures scale after the fact.
There is a sticker that is supposed to be on the back of the saw stating that there needs to be a gap of between 1/8" to 3/16" between the collar and assembly when the tension indicator is at rest from de-tensioning. However, this sticker is missing from my saw although strangely it is on the 457 used for demonstration purposes in the manual.
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