I’m rabbeting some 3/4″ x 3/4″ white oak stock with a 1/4″ x 1/4″ cut on opposite corners. The tear-out is pretty bad. Any suggestions on how to reduce this.
Thanks,
Mark
I’m rabbeting some 3/4″ x 3/4″ white oak stock with a 1/4″ x 1/4″ cut on opposite corners. The tear-out is pretty bad. Any suggestions on how to reduce this.
Thanks,
Mark
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Replies
Mark,
I wonder if the 3/4" square stock is chattering, and adding to the problem. Working the rabbets on opposite edges of a wider piece, then ripping may yield better results. Likewise cutting the rabbets in two passes, with the 2d pass lighter than the 1st. Or sawing the rabbets instead of shaping/routing.
Regards,
Ray
No can do. It's part of a case I'm building. The case needs to be really square. I found that it is much easier to build the case frame, glue on the panels, then cut the case open on the TSaw, finish, an put the hinge and hardware on. The corners of the case are spline miters for the top and bottom frame. The corner posts connecting top and bottom frame are gorilla glued in on three surfaces (a bit hard to explain, and I don't have a good pic).This is the frame of a bow case for my son. A smaller version of the one I made for myself.Fortunately, the tearout is inside the case ...Here is a picture of in-process work and my finished case (the prototype :-).Mark PS this is an edit - I reread your post yes the two passes makes sense. The TS options don't in this case...Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Edited 3/9/2005 2:34 pm ET by Mark
Only thing I can think of other than taking multiple shallower passes is this.
Clamp a backer board against the edge and change your bearing so that you cut through the backer and still get the same cut on your oak. You'll have to stop and shift clamps around a couple of times, but it should help on the oak face perpendicular to the shank. Not sure what you could do to stop tearout on the upward facing wall of the rabbet.If you build it - he will come.
I just had this problem on a thin piece of cherry I was working with. I ended up setting the bit to the full depth of cut and only just breaking the surface on the first pass. I also used a climb cut on the first pass. Dave
Mark,
From the photos, it looks like the tearout is occurring at the edge of the cut, rather than at the bottom. That is, the cutter is breaking out additional wood as it exits, to the side. I was assuming that the cutter was chipping deeper than the depth of the cut. I think your problem will be solved by taking a very light (1/32") pass at first, so the exit angle of the cutter is more nearly parallel to the surface of the wood. This really helps, especially when the grain is not running straight along the line of the rabbet. Taking a deep cut increases the exit angle of the cutter, making it more likely that it will lift out additional wood to the side as it comes out, especially when the grain is running down in that direction.
Regards,
Ray
Ray, thanks, I'll give it a try tonight.
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Ray, the light pass then the heavy pass worked fine. Thanks.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Mark,
Glad it helped.
Cheers,
Ray
Have you tried rabbeting it on a jointer?
Set the width (using the fence)and make your depth 1/16th, multiple passes to get 1/4.
Regards,
Leon Jester
Edited 3/9/2005 6:59 pm ET by Leon Jester
You'll have to look at the pics to see why that is not an option for this project. However, yes I have done them with a jointer...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Make a couple of passes of the stock over the TS blade for the rabbet. This will eliminate the tearout on the tongue
Clean your router bit.
take light passes
The shear angle of the rabbet bit may be causing this problem with certaing grain.
decrease the speed of the router & feed rate.
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