I have a 30 year old Sears 10″ radial arm saw. It appears to me that the problems I have with accuracy are directly attributable to the table. After a period of time a new plywood (or particle board) top tends to bow down on the edges. This is because the top is only supported by two rather small rails that are located too near the middle.
I thought about various ways to provide additional support to the top, but nothing really struck me as a good solution.
Any ideas? What about buying a 18″ x 36″ x 3/8″ aluminum plate and mounting it to the rails. I could then level it and dowel the rails in place to make sure they don’t move. I’d bolt on a plywood cutting surface.
Replies
Bill,
I use an oversized top and I support it by securing hardwood end rails on the underside of the top and running a diagonal brace down to the cabinet. I have also used angle iron running the entire length of the top as close to the saw base as you can get it. Either method works well although the end braces are my preference.
Doug
Bill,
My old Craftsman 10" RAS was my first WW tool. Fitted it out with a 3/4" "Micarta" table which it has to this day. It's completely stable, very dense, extremely rigid and also dead flat as "Micarta" is poured material (or so I was told). I think it's true as I've used the table as a reference surface for plane/iron flattening etc. many times over the years with good results. I made the "standard" cuts in the table top and only use a plywood cover for the unusual stuff. I don't think you could go far wrong with any type of poured material; only question is expense. I got my piece free and have no idea what this type of material sells for.
2CW option. Please post your choice/results.
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
I had the same problem so I built (overbuilt!) a massive table for the saw. It is 8 ft long and has the saw set in the middle at table height. The two sides are used for outfeed/infeed , and the whole surface is very usefull. Down below the side tables are drawers and a huge space for storage. It is backed by a 4X8 sheet of plywood painted white. I do not have any photos. I absolutely love this bench. It is completely disassemblable (sp)
Hans
Friend,
The trend is to use 3/4" or so mdfb. That's more stable than p.w. or particle board.
The reason for supports emphasized towards the center would be the fact that some groove will result in the center, weakening the surface, so support at the center is emphasized. The edges get some leveling supports.
On redesigning the original, the above still needs to be considered.
-mbl-
I would pull off the old stuff, and re-build from scratch using MDF or even plywood. There will be plenty of screw holes at the bottom of the frame to hold the table in check. That type of saw is so inherently inaccurate that it won't matter too much.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
There is another thing that will cause inaccurate cuts. Sawdust buildup along the fence. Make 3/8" x 1 1/2" spacers the thickness of the top. Glue or brad nail these to the back edge of the table, between the fence and table and flush with the top. Use a spacer about every 8". This creates a place for the sawdust to drop down instead of building up along the fence.
mike
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