Radial Arm Saw vs Sliding Miter Saw
Lightman
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Hi,
Im in the process of setting up a smaller home workshop. I own a 12″ sliding compound mitre saw. I have found a reasonable priced Ridgid radial arm saw and Im un-decided if I would get real good use out of it considering the mitre saw. Does your radial arm saw get much use?
Is that good reasoning?
Thanks
Replies
I use my RAS for most of my cross cutting. Others use a sled on the table saw for larger pieces and a good miter gauge for smaller pieces. When my 30-year old RAS dies, I will replace it with a sled and really good miter gauge. IMHO, accuracy of cuts is greatest with a dialed-in sled and miter gauge. RAS' are really hard to keep aligned. Others SCMS users will have to attest to the accuracy of cuts for furniture work. The only reason I have not switched is I really like the ergonomics of the RAS compared to cross-cutting on the TS. I also have to align the #*$& RAS every month or so.
I have had a RAS for years and use it as a miter saw on steroids. RAS are very hard to keep in alignment and there is always some inaccuracy with all those moving parts.
Also, ripping on a RAS is scary to say the least.
Buy a good table saw. Remember that tools these days are cheap compared to the cost of hardwood.
Neil
Geeze! Everybody says RAS's are hard to keep aligned. I've had mine on line for about 5 years, and although I periodically check it, I've never had to re-align it. It's an older Sears electronic version (I bought it used from a guy in the classified ads). I think a lot of it must be in the mounting. Mine ispermanently mounted to a pretty solid bench system. Beyond that, it's just a pretty meaty machine and takes a fair amount of abuse....still doesn't need alignment.
I use the thing about every day and love it. Given the choice between RAS and any miter saw, I'd take the Radial Arm any day.
Nice thing about some radsaws is that you can put a dado blade on them, easier to cut dados in shelves and such. Look for an old dewalt, nice saws lots of cast iron and very smooth.
Troy
Troy:As if by coincidence, I just picked up an old cast iron Dewalt. It was free (the hernia surgery will cost, though).
Where do you find parts? Is there a manual or should I just keep careful track of what I pull apart -I don't know whether it's rust or just 'caught' on something, but it doesn't slide very nicely at all.
Mel Birgé
Check out this site. They are a little over the top about these machines, but they will help you find all that stuff.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
there is also the OWWM site. I forget the URL. Search for "Old Wood Working Machines"
Mike
I got a reprint of the original manual online I think it was on OWMNs website I deleated the file when I sold the saw. Also there is a book on Radial armsaws out there that is a big help on tuning these saws up. Mine was in ok shape I just needed to replace the top which I made out of MDF. If you have not used one of these saws be careful mine did not have a counter wieght so it would pull toward the user very easily. Also use a negative hook blade. Good luck Troy
For light duty work a cms will do most everything you'll need. But I agree with Troy there is no better machine for a dado blade. I have an Original contractors saw, and if your looking for a top of the line radial arm, check them out.
I have had my Sears RA saw for over forty years and have given it plenty of use. I bought it at a time when the RA saw was right up there among the basic eight. It has lost a lot of popularity since. I give it a good tuning every time I do a project. It is hard to keep it aligned. It is excellent for dadoing and if I had a good slider, that is probably all I would use it for. For my money and limited shop space I probably wouldn't replace it.
I'm with you...had my RAS for probably 20 years when Dad and I bought it used out of a guy's garage. I don't have much problems squaring it to the fence for exceptional crosscuts. I use a 60-tooth Freud chrome blade, and board ends practically shine. The table saw's for ripping, RAS for crosscuts, miter for miters (don't own a slider (too much money)).
If it's cheap enough, buy it for an extra. I picked up a Sears 12" RAS for $125 in great condition. I have it in my lumber shed for rough sizing only. Handy as can be.
yieldmap
Wooder,
I've had a Dewalt RAS made in 1959 for over 10 years. Don't own a table saw and have used the heck out of the RAS for dado cuts, cross cuts, compound miters, and yes, ripping. On the older, non Sears, saws alingment isn't a problem. If I was going to need to move the saw around alot I'd look at the sliding compound mitre saw. Moving my RAS really is a two man job.
Greg
Hi,
Thanks to every one for your input--its obvious the RAS holds a place in the workshop.
The saw that is for sale is a Rigid RS1000. Any comments on this particular RAS?
Thanks to all.
View Image
I don't know this particular saw. But it is basically a Home Depot house brand and that would give me concern over the long-term.
Moreover, the problems with light duty RASs concerning alignment aren't just due to sloppy manufacturing of Craftsman tools (which may not be that sloppy anyway.) These problems are almost inherent in the tool unless there is serious metal to absorb the stresses involved. I just don't believe that can be achieved with a new tool under $1,000 or $1,500. Thats why I don't own one any more. I used a top of the line Craftsman years ago but was glad to sell it when I moved. Old iron, if you are capable of evaluating and restoring, is a good solution if it was of high quality to begin with.
By the way, this appears to be a discontinued item. Neither the Ridgid nor the Home Depot web sites show this among the current product listings.
Edited 12/15/2005 10:28 am ET by SteveSchoene
The Ridgid saw is discontinued. Parts should be availible for a long while sinse it is the same as the craftsman saws. It is not a very reliable saw as far as holding settings. It will do well for cross cuts that don't require a lot of percision, but not for miters or parts that have to fit perfectly. If you find one of the OLD Dewalts (1950-197?) those are solid. They hold their settings well. Most of those saws you will find are three phase but can be bought for $200 to $300 and a static phase converter can be bought for $100. A single phase version will cost a lot more. Any whare from $400 to $900. Another great RAS is any of the Delta "turret" style saws, not the home or shop master unit. Used these can be had for $500.
Another big advantage of the old saws is that most have a 24" cross cut. That is a very big deal if you make cabinets. Imagine cutting all of your boxes on a RAS instead of on the table saw.
If you have the space a RAS can be a very usefull tool, it is not a substitute for a good mitersaw, but it does replace a slider if you have a good miter saw.
Mike
Not since I got the DeWalt 708. I don't think it has ever been used since.
way back when chop saws were new, and sliding compound mitre saws didn't even exist (to my knowledge) a RAS was essential to cabinet work. They are hard to set up accurately, but if never moved, tend to stay that way.
In my experience, they have almost totally been eclipsed by scms, but that being said, I still got mine, and while it hasn't been used now for at least a coupla years, every time I think about selling it, along comes a job where it finds application.
It does take up a whack of bench space though, and I think I've replaced more freakin bearings on it than on any other piece of equipment. It really is a "dog", but if it wasn't paid for and really ain't bothering me, there it sits.
The upside, for anyone thinking of buying one, is that they are a dime a dozen in the used market. They ain't typically portable so they don't see quite the transit abuse that various configurations of chop saws do, so if there's no obvious sign of abuse, and that the bearings which hold the motor suspended are OK, odds are that, once set up, a used RAS will do OK. But they do take some setting up.
Today, I'd not be buying a new one. For all the usage it would see, to my pea-brain 95% of it's capabilities could be accomplished with a portable SCMS, and for that other 5%, there are work-arounds, ergo the recommendation to buy a used one cheap if you really feel you need a RAS.
Just my thoughts
Eric in Cowtown
I have had a RAS for about 23 years and still use it for most of my cross cutting except wide panels which I cross cut on with a cross cut sled on my table saw. since you already have a miter saw I would forget the RAS and get a table saw. RAS are dangerous when you try to rip on them and although many use to do it I will not for this reason.
The table saw with a good after market miter saw and some sleds can do more than you could ever do on a radial arm saw. Since I have one I continue to use it.
Since yo are just setting up your shop I would recommend getting the basic tools fo dimension lumber: jointer,planner,table saw.
Dan Evans
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