HAS ANYONE OUT THERE USED A RADIAL ARM SAW FOR MAKING TENONS? I AM GOING TO BE CUTTING TENONS IN SOME FAIRLY LONG PIECES( OVER 5′ ) AND AM NOT SURE THAT BAND SAWS OR TABLE SAW JIGS ARE THE WAY TO GO. I LIKE THE IDEA OF DRAWING A DADO BLADE ACROSS THE PIECE FOR BOTH THE SHOULDER AND FACE CUTS, BUT HAVN’T TRIED IT YET. SOME WOODWORKERS I’VE TALKED TO LOVE THIS SAW AND OTHERS WOULDN’T TAKE ONE IF IT WAS GIVEN TO THEM. PROS AND CONS ?
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Replies
I have a Craftsman "10 RAS and for material that I'm putting tenons on that has any kind of lengh to it at all the RAS is all I use.
I Just make sure and use a taller fence and if I cant hold it still enough I clamp the stock to the fence.
Also if the saw wants to pull its way through the stock especially in hardwoods I push the head of the saw through instead of pulling, for me it seems as if I get cleaner cuts and more control of the saw.
Good Luck,
Jim Clark
Hi Jim,
For safety reasons, better to pull than push. I'd hate to see you lose a finger/hand
Here's a link to a recent thread that should have all the answers, as well as some google hits I got on using RAS.
Of course, there's no need to repeat what happened in the other thread - so use the saw however you see fit.
Cheers,
eddie
You're right on target. This is a perfect use of the radial arm saw.
Don't try to cut the entire depth at once. Instead, take a couple small passes. Obviously, flip the piece over after each cut, so you take the exact same amount off each side.
Cutting tenons this way creates lots of dust. To reduce it, I've recently adopted the following procedure:
1) Make the two shoulder (cheek?) cuts with a regular blade to just a hair's width deeper than the tenon cuts will be.
2) Using a tenon saw, rough cut the tenons by hand.
3) Finish with radial arm saw.
I figure if I do this frequently enough I'll get good enough with the tenon saw that I can do the whole process by hand.
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