I’VE BEEN WRESTLING WITH THIS PROBLEM FOR A WHILE. I HAVE SOME 6X6 RED CEDAR POSTS THAT I WANT TO MAKE A BED WITH. I WANT TO PUT A FULL RADIUS ON THE TOP OF THE POSTS IN BOTH DIRECTIONS SO THAT THE TOP LOOKS LIKE A DOME WITH THE 4 EDGES STILL SHOWING. ANOTHER WAY TO VISUALIZE IT IS AS A SHORT 4-SIDED PYRAMID WITH THE SIDES CURVING IN TOWARDS THE APEX.
I CAN’T IMAGINE TRYING TO CUT THIS ON A BANDSAW. PICTURE HOLDING ONTO A 6′ LONG POST AND TRYING TO CUT TO A CURVED LINE AT THE TOP! I TRIED DOING IT FREE-HAND ON A SCRAP PIECE WITH A BELT SANDER – LOOKED PRETTY BAD. THERE ARE 6″ LONG DRUM SANDERS THAT I CAN MOUNT IN MY DRILL PRESS BUT DEFLECTION IS A BIG PROBLEM. THE SANDED SURFACE ENDS UP WITH A SLOPE AND I IMAGINE IT PLAYS HAVOC WITH THE BEARINGS AS WELL.
THERE IS A DRUM SANDER SUPPORT BEARING BUT APPARENTLY IT DOESNT WORK WITH THE LONGER SLEEVELESS DRUM SANDERS. DOES ANYONE MAKE A HAND HELD SPINDLE SANDER ? I’M SURE THERE’S A LARGE INDUSTRIAL MACHINE OUT THERE THAT CAN DO THE JOB EASILY BUT I’M JUST A HOBBYIST WITH A SMALL SHOP SO IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW I COULD DO THIS WITH ORDINARY SHOP TOOLS I’D LOVE TO HEAR THEM – THANKS.
Replies
router in incriments. Then smooth it up with a sander.
Youll need to make a jig that lets the router be supported by the uneffeted post. Similar to a radius jig because you can get two opposing sides fine, the other two opposing sides would be trouble.
bandsaw would work, just make a table that supports the weight of the post so you can cut the curves, its silly to try and hold it while you guide it
Hello
On many wooden beds the turnings are made seperatly and morticed onto the posts,
you can buy a turning,or make it yourself, remember the smaller the size of the wood the easer it will be to handle.
Good Luck on your project.
sincerly C.A.G.
Build an appropriately sized aux. table for your band saw. Doesn't have to be anything fancy for the few cuts you'll be making. A rip of MDF with some 2x4 feet should be sufficient.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
4.5" angle grinder, some 36 grit disks for roughing out, and a little practice - work up the grits to about 80 and finish with hand block - - do the radius first, then cut to length - gotta move the tool, you figured that out - belt sanders are too unweildy - milwaukee makes a nice grinder - http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/milw/mi6140.htm?L+coastest+ffkn9038ffc92ac9+1057260232 - lose the guard for use with a sanding disk - the paddle switch on this grinder is a lot better than some brands toggle switches -
Do you have access to an edge sander? If so, or to a larger disk sander, you can come very close to perfect by careful marking, and swinging the piece in a arc, grinding/sanding to the line. I have done this to give a rounded end to to 3" square spanish cedar. It does kick up the dust. I prefer an edge sander for this process, shaping with coarser grits, and then working through the grits till done. For this heavy labor, you might consider zirconia alumina belts/disks as they wear like iron.
Alan
Router. I'll explain, if you're interested.
Good Luck!
John
I can't see how it can be done with a router on 4 sides. I think you'd need a channel type jig since there won't be anyway to support the router after the 1st and 2nd sides. Said jig, and template will probably leave you short on bit length as CMT's longest straight bit has a 2" cutting length. So you'd end up with a band down the middle of each face (which might actually be a good thing because it might support a template afterall). Next you have to consider you're talking about routing a curve into end grain on softwood with a lot of variation between early and latewood so that 3 HP router spinning 2" of carbide is gonna be catching and buckin something fierce. Wiith my luck I'd have 3 sides done and it would catch and launch the last 2" of the post and my template into a deep, dark corner of my shop never to be seen again. Cedar is soft and your only talking about 4 posts, right?
Step1. Rough it out with the saw of your choice (bow, hack, coping, sabre, radial or table w/ sled and dado, Ryoba, s h i t even a Sawsall or a Milwaulkie Portaband))
Step 2. Clean it up with block plane, rasps, bastard file, etc
Step 3. Sand it with a ROS (leave the belt sander on the shelf)
Step 4. Have a beer or 4 (one for each post, hmmm 16? one for each face?) and bask in the warm glow of accomplishment that you finished these in less time than it would take to make the jig and you did it by hand. You are now a woodworking stud.
I for one, have been paralized so many times trying to figure a way to machine something that I could have done by hand in less time than I spent figur'n, let alone the time in setting up a jig and machine to do it. If your doing 20 then the machine might be the answer. I just re-read some Krenov last night so I'm a little more in touch with my Zen side than usual.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Lucas,
If I'm understanding you correctly, a rounded pyramid on top of a 6x6, I just did this with my CMS. Depending on the desired slope, you can set up the stock either normally or support the stock and put it perpendicular to the table and chop that way. Even if it doesn't go all the way thru its very easy to finish with a hand saw. Once the cuts are made you can shape the rest of it with anything you like.
On shorter pieces of stock where more accuracy is desired I've used the tenon jig on the TS...just tilt the blade and maybe a wedge to create the different angles.
Edited 7/6/2003 6:07:27 AM ET by BG
Edited 7/6/2003 6:16:17 AM ET by BG
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