Replies

1. 
   gecko | Jan 27, 2004 05:32am | #1

   if the set didn't come with instructions, which they normally don't, you can usually figure out the settings you need simply by trial and error. its a bit of a pain but your best bet is to make up a bunch of test pieces to try the bits on until you get a nice fit.

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

2. 
   MBL | Jan 27, 2004 10:01am | #2

   Friend, there are several versions of sets. You do need the set's specific instructions.  The cut made on the endgrain members is usually done by carrying the piece on a shallow sled, with support(s). They are 'rails' and you could cut them from a piece slightly over twice the width of one and them rip two pieces out. You try on straight scrap pieces and once you have the right fits save the correctly cut scraps as gauges. Good luck.

3. 
   dondownunder | Jan 27, 2004 01:59pm | #3

   Michael

   Usually some form of basic instruction is contained in the manufacturer's catalog but   the following might help.

   There are 3 basically different types & although I don't know which one you have, all may be approached in a similar way

   Those sets are:

   a. twin matched sets of 'mirror' image cutters. Great if you are able to set up 2 routers but otherwise not bad if you are well organised. I use these cutters for heavier (> 1" thick doors). 

   b. 3 cutters stacked so that the rail ends are cut with (usually) the top 2, the styles & rail longnitudinal cut with the bottom  2 (as veiwed when located in a table). This type is easier to set up than 2 stacked cutters using the depth stops on the router & don't need to be shimmed as they are factory set.

   c. 2 cutters in a stack which need to be reversed (& usually shimmed) when changing from rail ends to long cuts. Once you've got the shimming right make a note of the sequence  for future ref.

   The advantages of the matched set is in being able to have both set simultaneously, but generally this may not be seen as a big plus unless you are making a living from from it & the higher initial cost can be written off.

   With the matched sets, set one cutter giving some thought to how your joint will look. Cut rail ends first, (long cuts after to minimise tear out problems on the edge). Use a square scrap of (for example) MDF to keep the rail square to the fence which is set in line with the bearing.  Feed the rail thru until the cutter burries itself into the MDF.

   Once all rails are machined set the cutter to mirror the previous cut, generally easier to line up the tenon on the rail with the cutter, run a few scraps left over from when you docked the rails until you are happy with the joint then proceed to do the long cuts.

   The set up for 3 & 2 cutter stack sets are pretty much the same however the cutters need to be restacked in the case of the 2. I prefer the 3 cutter stacks because set up is less painful than the 2 & the price is reasonable.

   Hope this helps

   Don

1. 
   mtburton | Jan 28, 2004 05:23am | #4

   Thanks for your reply Don.  The set I purchased is a Whiteside set, and it is a matched set one bit for the rails and one for the stiles.  I will only be using one router table.  The stock will be 3/4".  The cutters are a pretty good size, it looks like they would work better on 1" stock which I can do if necessary but would rather go 3/4".  Is there any standard on how thick the bottom of the parts should be?  By this I mean below the grove should it be 1/4"? can I go less?  It seems like if I were to bury the entire bit in the stock I would end up about 1/8" thick below the groove which seems a little thin to me.

   I did not expect any instruction with the set, but they could have at least given some dimensions that would help in locating the bit against the stock.

   Thanks,

   Michael

1. 
   dondownunder | Jan 28, 2004 10:06am | #5

   Michael

   I wouldn't have any problem with 1/8" but wouldn't go with less.

   Set the bit up so that you get the 1/8 on the back, run a test peice & have a look at the face profile, if it looks OK then go with it, if not adjust accordingly.

   I make my doors 21mm which is closer to 11/16" so usually have a bit more thickness on the back. Don't forget to check out the depth of the panel relative to the frame if you are going with a raised panel.

   I agree that a few guidelines or a recommended set-up would at least give us somewhere to start.

   Don