Replies

1. 
   frenchy | May 23, 2005 06:48pm | #1

   Bluegillman,

     I used to think the trick was sacrafical boards..  they helped but now I've found that slowing down the wood as I pass it past the end of the cutters solved my problem on wood prone to tear out like fiddleback maple ..

     I also found that when I slowed the cutter speed on the shaper I had less tear out, it did cause the wood at the edge to curl up  but a moments worth of work with an Exacto knife solved that issue..

    I still start the cut at normal speed and most of the cut remains at the same speed but I slow way down as I appraoch the edge..

2. 
   Ricks503 | May 24, 2005 12:44am | #2

   I like the Infinity cutters and always use a scrap backer to reduce/eliminate tearout

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   Bluegillman | May 24, 2005 06:34am | #5

   Ends seems to be doing well no chip outs. It's the one along the edge where the floating panel sits. The front side that shows is the one the trouble I'm getting, back side has sharp and clean lines. Infinity cutters <-- who sells them?

1. 
   Ricks503 | May 24, 2005 04:15pm | #9

   http://www.infinitytools.com/

    

   I use a number of their bits and have been real happy with them.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

3. 
   Midnight | May 24, 2005 02:12am | #3

   I use the Freud raised panel set; ensure the cutters are clean and sharp, speed cranked way down, sacraficial push block... never had anything but perfect results straight outa the box...

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   Bluegillman | May 24, 2005 06:26am | #4

   What's the thickness at the lips that holds the floating panel? Mine measures at 5/64th. Do u have the model number to Freud's that u use?

1. 
   Midnight | May 24, 2005 11:10pm | #12

   You sure 5/64ths is right?? Seems pretty flimsy to me.. Just to make sure we're talking aobut the same thing here, this is the slot milled into the rails and styles that secure the panel..?? My Freud set mills the slot at exactly 6.00mm (I've no idea what that is in auld money but it's a smidge under a quarter inch).

   Part # for my set is 95-10050 (5 piece door set)Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   Bluegillman | May 25, 2005 06:13am | #13

   6.00mm is .2363 in inches, yep it is under 1/4th. That's the slot opening for the floater to fit in. Yes, we are talking about there but not that part, it's the one above that. The roman orgee is on top of the slot so that's is how thick the "lips" are. So 5/64th that comes to .078 thickness. Clear?

1. 
   Midnight | May 25, 2005 10:03pm | #14

   Ahhhh... I gotchya...

   short answer is it depends on the height you set your cutter; the set doesn't have a back cutter so there's a little room for manuver when working with 19mm stock...

   With the cutter set to relieve a shoulder 2.7mm above the quarter round, there's 2.7mm between the outer edge of the panel slot and the outer face of the rail / style...Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

4. 
   Bluegillman | May 24, 2005 06:41am | #6

   Yep.

5. 
   JeffHeath | May 24, 2005 06:42am | #7

   Bluegillman

   I've got the same set of CMT's with the same results.  I don't even use them anymore.  I think their sales department is great at all the shows, but their production is way below par.  The cope and sticks don't even fit snuggly, they're lose.  I love all my Whiteside bits, including the two different profiles of cope and stick bits.  I've probably made over 100 doors with them, a days work for some, but a lot for me, and I still haven't had to get them sharpened.  No tear out ever, and no problems with the tightness of the joint.

   I always use a sacrificial board to prevent tear out on the endgrain cuts. 

   Jeff

6. 
   mikegagne | May 24, 2005 09:44am | #8

   Making sure that your hold downs are as rock solid as possible eliminating vibration (and therefore tearout) should help immensely. Those small parts of the profile cannot take vibration from a full bore cut. Hope this helps....Aloha, Mike

7. 
   MatthewSchenker | May 24, 2005 04:38pm | #10

   I have had great success with the MLCS rail and stile cutters. I have also had success with all their other bits, but you are asking specifically about rail and stile, so I'll focus on that for now.

   Here are links to MLCS reversible and stacked rail and stile bits:
   http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/revrscmbo.html
   http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_stack.html
   http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_match.html

8. 
   bladeburner | May 24, 2005 05:09pm | #11

   Sounds like what happened to me recently using a piece of HD red oak. After I made the cuts, I miked it......11/16". The board was just a tad too thin for the cutter profile!

   Joe