Last night I made my very first door, using a Bosch 1- 5/8 Ogee set. It took about an hour since i had no drawings, but came out pretty good for my first. My question is as follows;
I am pretty much set on a Classical profile, and would like to find a set that offers a greater reveal on 3/4″ stock. Since i plan to use it to make doors and end panels for cabinets and built-ins, i feel like it needs a little more “depth” and cant find a manufacturer that makes a larger than 3/8″ reveal in the classic profile.
I have also been looking at the Amana 49682 Wainscot bit set. I know I can use that for the end panels of the units (they are going to be paint grade). Anyone have this set, and if so, how would it match up with the 3/8″ reveal S&R Set?
Thanks all.
Replies
I haven't researched the market, so maybe there's something out there.....
(The following ramblings are done with cope and stick bit sets in mind -- not just thinking about the panel, but about the stiles and rails too)
But if the profile on the front surface is greater than 3/8", and the panel groove is still 1/4".......
.....then the panel groove will not be a groove, and the panel edge will need to be extremely thin, to prevent the panel from protruding into the cabinet space.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
I'm sorry, but I din't follow that. I'm a newbie, so maybe I should have explained what I meant a little better.
If a 3/8" reveal is created with a 1 5/8" bit, would a larger diameter bit make more of a reveal without changing the panel slot? And if so, who makes one in a classical profile? All the ones I have looked at ( Amana, CMT, Whiteside, Freud) are 1 5/8, and the larger diameter ones are not available in Classic profile. Am I barking up the wrong tree looking for such a bit?
I believe the confusion comes from the fact you used the term "depth" instead of "width" to explain you wanted a wider profile.
Are you asking about the profile on the stiles and rails.Or are you asking about the profile on the panel.And are you asking about the width of that profile, as viewed from the front of the door face.Or are you asking about the depth of that profile, as viewed from the same point?
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Thanks for responding guys.
When I say "reveal", i meant the width of the profile from the inside of the Rail/Style. The door I made had a simple 1/4" plywood panel (Plan on using MDF on finished goods).
I have thought about making a simple frame and using applied molding to the inside, but I feel like that would make me a cheater, lol, since it will be for my own home. After much more research last night, I have realized that the Classic profile is only available in 3/8 reveal, so now I am considering adding a raised panel to enhance the look.
On another note; has anyone used the Wainscoting profile bits from AMANA I had mentioned in my first post? I am really interested in hearing how they perform.
Don't feel like a cheater if you use an applied profile molding on your paneled doors. First of all, it might not be as easy as some think.And secondly, many beautiful (VERY beautiful) doors are done that way.I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Yes , YesMaam ,
They can call me cheater if they want to.
As far as applied molding doors and such , at first I thought they were a cheap imitation of something else. The more I saw of them the more I realized there were so many posibilites , and the contrast can add wonders .
I agree wholly with your post , they can look nice but like most things are easy if you know how , but may not be so easy to do if you don't.
regards dusty, boxmaker
As far as applied moldings; are they glued and pinned in place? or is there a secret joint somewhere? And both examples are great, you guys did very nice doors!
age,
Some are glued , some are pinned , some may have secrets.
dusty
Maybe I am stating the obvious but applied moldings are mitered at the corners. No need for elaborate joinery. If you have a plywood/mdf panel you can glue the moldings and pin them. If you have a solid wood panel it needs to expand/contract with the seasons so the molding should only be attached to the rails and stiles in that case. I don't use glue with solid panels because it is near impossible to prevent glue from touching the panel. I only pin the molding to the rail/stile.Depending on the look you want you can use a thicker molding and rabbet the outside edge to fit on top of the rails/stiles. Here's an example: http://www.allstyle.ca/Applied_%20Moulding_Doors/Rena_Door.html.
Another alternative is to build mitered doors. The advantage of this technique is that you can now use any profiling bit on the market to mill a pleasing pattern on the inside edge of the rails and stiles. You are not limited to cope-and-stick sets. The attached picture shows a small cabinet I built many years ago. I used two thirds of a triple bead bit to make the pattern.In my experience mitered doors require more careful execution than cope-and-stick and one should reinforce the miter with a spline or biscuits.
Did you make a complete door (rails, stiles, raised panel) or just the rails and stiles? If it is the latter than I suggest you build the raised panel and see if you still feel there needs to be more happening.
I am not aware of bits that will give you a significantly wider profile than 3/8" on the inside edge of the rails and stiles. I think your best bet would be to go with a square edge and apply a molding of the desired width along the inside edge of the frame. You could buy the molding to save time or mill your own.
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