Replies

1. 
   mrbird90 | Mar 31, 2009 08:26pm | #1

   It would work but I am not sure it will look right and we are trained to expect the stiles run from top to bottom, but if the paint is thick enough and the joints are tight then you may not be able to see which way the stiles and rails run. I don't see a problem with doing standard doors. good luck either way.

1. 
   FR | Mar 31, 2009 08:33pm | #2

   Thanks.   Would you have any concern if it was done the traditional way that the coped glue joints would break under the weight of the door?  3.5 inch poplar frames and mdf raised panels.  

   FR

1. 
   philip_r | Mar 31, 2009 08:37pm | #3

   No concerns with the traditional method...  In fact, traditional way has fewer parts, it only takes one glue up and is less error prone.  This all makes it easier on you to get the perfect fit.

2. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 01, 2009 02:11am | #6

   I think the MDF could be a problem, I would go with poplar or some other light weight wood to keep the stress down. If you are really concerned I would go with traditional mortice and tenon  which woud do a lot to make the joints stronger.

2. 
   Samson | Mar 31, 2009 10:04pm | #4

   If you are worried about strength, why not just make actual mortises and tenons rather than cope and stick?  It's good enought for full size entry doors. 

    

3. 
   Quickstep | Mar 31, 2009 10:35pm | #5

   I think either way would work, but I'm not sure that running the rails long will necessarily prevent the door from racking, especially since the dorr is wider than it is tall. Assuming the rails are wider than the stiles, you get greater gluing surface the traditional way. Either way, I'd avoid MDF because of the added weight. Just my 2¢

    

    

   
4. 
   JohnWW | Apr 01, 2009 03:44am | #7

   FR,

   A few problems come to mind:

   1. The mortises for the top and bottom hinges will be in end grain, they'll be harder to chisel out if you cut them by hand.

   2. The screws for the top and bottom hinges will be into end grain which is weaker.

   3. The hinges will go out of line when the stile expands and contracts with humidity changes.

   4. Off hand this is a bad design for simple cope and stick door joinery, there will be a lot of stress on the joints. Gluing in the MDF panels would make the assembly very rigid but I'm not sure that is a good idea, MDF expands and contracts about half as much as solid wood.

   I'd suggest trying to split the door into two doors.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW, 1999-2007

5. 
   oldusty | Apr 01, 2009 05:46am | #8

     FR ,

              If you have the ability to make a stile and rail stub tenoned  door and make the rails large enough to give the needed integrity , using a few  dowels in each joint will add enormous benefit in this application from my own experience .

             that is going to be fine poplar or how about Ash .

                           hope this helps

                              regards  dusty

1. 
   FR | Apr 01, 2009 04:49pm | #9

   Everyone,

   Thanks for all of the comments.    The doors are expected to get occasional use, rather than the regular use of kitchen cabinets.   I explored splitting the door, but was rejected.  The double vertical raised panel door was displayed in a millwork catalog that is over 80 years old.    That is the look of this door.   (This is classic form over function).   I am building the doors sometime over the next month or so.   I'll report back on how it all went and send along a picture.

   By the way,  has anyone made raised panels from Ultralite MDF?

   Thanks again for your help.

   Frank R.