Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 23, 2004 04:31pm | #1

   3" strips are kosher,butt-join, no need for reversible glue,a PC 2 HP works fine, you could use a shaper if you want. A vertical raised panel bit would be easier than the horizontal bit, take a small amount each pass. Easier still, if the panels have a slanted edge profile instead of a curve, use the tablesaw. Backcutting is up to you, but try to keep a balance  of stile and rail material, front and rear, in the dado.

     Bit brand doesn't really matter. Or it matters as much as any of your other tools.Use carbide edged.

   
   

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   Edited 4/23/2004 9:37 am ET by JACKPLANE

2. 
   Mic1 | Apr 23, 2004 05:44pm | #2

   A 2hp router may be pushing it if you have a lot of panel work to do. Back cutting material off to lighten the load would be wise so you won't burn it out. Your panel bit is pretty big so making a couple different passes, like Jackplane stated, will be your best bet. Always cut across the grain first when making your raised panel. Because any chipout will be cut away when routing or shaping the "with the grain" side.

   There are other alternatives besides buying a shaper. A large job would warrant spending the money but consider outsourcing prices vs. your real cutting needs. Shapers are one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment in a shop. Do yourself a favor and buy a nice power feed and cast iron dust collection hood to go with it if you do decide to purchase. Dear God keep your hands away from the red zone and make sure everything is properly tightened down.

   There are many specialty companies out there to order doors from. Here is one that I have used in the past; http://www.cabinetfactory.com/index.htm Just remember, by the time you have bought everything that you need with your shaper, it may take you several jobs to pay for the darn thing. Costume cut blades are expensive and clients don't like to absorb these costs generally. They think you are the wood guy and you should be able to cut any shape at the drop of a dime for a free set-up and no charge.

   Mic-

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 23, 2004 05:54pm | #3

    By the way, I hope you're not attempting to freehand rout. A bit this size MUST be in a table for safety's sake.You may well already know this.

3. 
   notDusty | Apr 23, 2004 05:55pm | #4

                 Jim ,

        Many wood workers take the panels down in thickness to between 1/2" and 5/8"  I take mine down to 9/16" before shaping the raised panel detail. This should eliminate the need to back cut the panels and makes the doors weigh less . As far as glue up on the panels depending on the project, IMO using as few as possible seams in each panel can be more pleasing to the eye.Otherwise they may look like they are made of scraps , no seams look the best. The problem with the glue joints is where you cut the detail the glue can show when finished. Butt joints work fine. If you have a choice I would use a shaper to raise the panels , this is a big bite and the more power, usually the better .

                            good luck                  dusty

1. 
   fdampier5 | Apr 25, 2004 12:43am | #5

   If it's not hijacking someone elses thread,  how much of a cut do you take on a 3 hp shaper?   (shaper not router)   I've seen everything from full cuts to about a 1/4 of an inch per pass..

    Is it the variety of wood, type of cut, or "feel" of the operator? 

     I seldom see anybody using a power feeder  except for production shops.   Do you really feel that they are needed or add a significant of safety?  My shaper hand book only mentions them in passing..

1. 
   bobJackson | Apr 25, 2004 01:08am | #6

   You should be able to do your whole r.p. cut in one pass. End grain first and then the sides. I really like my power feeder to run the sticking. That is where the fingers are the closest. It also eliminates chatter and man caused wobbles.  good luck   Bob

2. 
   notDusty | Apr 25, 2004 01:41am | #7

            Hi frenchy ,

       As far as how much of a cut to take at a time on a 3 horse power shaper , the type of wood harder or denser or more prone to burn along with the performance and condition of cutters and machine should determine the size of bite taken. Sure one pass on any paint grade mdf for a full raised panel detail , on 5 hp and larger one pass is probably o.k. but I have found by taking a smaller final pass leaves a better cut , certainly gives a chance to clean up any burns.I personally take about 3 passes regardless of the hp . Power feeds are wonderful to use , they take a lot of the hard work of pushing and pulling out of the picture. IMO the best thing about power feeds is they eliminate chatter and no traces of stopping and starting will show. Honestly I mainly use my power feed for long pieces such as moldings and such . It is purely a blanket statement to say all details should be done in a single pass. If it works for you , go for it .The reality is that wood can be a very un forgiving medium , and sometimes each piece wants to be treated differently, learning to read the board and grain gives us an educated guess on what to expect.

                                   dusty