Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Jan 22, 2006 08:27pm | #1

           Forrest ,         If you have stock that's nice and flat and stable , by all means use it . Panels with none or a minimum of seams is a very desirable look . The beauty of frame and panel construction once the stable panel is captured by the frame little if any warpage occurs .

                I take most of my panels down to 5/8" + or -  then shape them . When you look at a panel door it is hard to tell how thick the panel is from the face . A lighter door and a flat panel .

                                       good   luck              dusty

2. 
   mudman | Jan 22, 2006 09:48pm | #2

   Absolutely not necessary. The problem that alternating growth rings is suposed to fix is a non issue. Make sure the wood is equalliberalized and go for it.

   Mike

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 25, 2006 08:09pm | #9

   "alternating growth rings is a non issue"

   Not by a long shot. His panel and door should be fine if the emc is low, about 6-9% roughly. If not, that red oak will move as one large panel instead several smaller, glued up pieces. The debate is not over,it's a matter of personal taste...

    

   Edited 1/25/2006 2:02 pm ET by jackplane

1. 
   notDusty | Jan 26, 2006 06:33pm | #10

   jackplane ,

                     If the Red Oak is not adequately dry and stable , imo it will move whether you glue 3 pieces or keep it as one . It doesn't seem likely the 3 pieces could move independently after they are glued up . Why would you want them to ?

               For a table top or other wood countertop that is not captured in a frame like a door panel is , alternating growth rings for glue up imo is more of an important factor in keeping the glue up flat .

                          regards           dusty

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 26, 2006 07:00pm | #12

    as you mention, the panel will move if it's not dry enough. it's simply a matter of cupping as one panel, or cupping to a smaller degree among three glued up pieces.

   best,

   jp 

2. 
   mudman | Jan 26, 2006 06:43pm | #11

   Are you refering to expansion across the grain or cupping?

   Mike

3. 
   ForrestGreen | Jan 23, 2006 12:29am | #3

   Thanks for your input, you've saved me a lot of time. I got all the rails and stiles done today. Next weekend I'll do the panels.

   Forrest

4. 
   loucarabasi | Jan 23, 2006 05:05am | #4

   Forrestgreen, I would  rip the piece in half (releasing the tension it may be under) Then I would joint the two matching edges. Then All you have to do is glue them the same way.

   -LMC

1. 
   mudman | Jan 23, 2006 05:48pm | #7

   Release what tension? This "tension" you are refering to is ONLY released if the board is cut, otherwise the stress remains equalized. And that "tension" (more accurately described as stress) will cause crooking, not cupping or bowing. A 9" wide board is very unlikely to crook after jointed, only if it is reaction wood. Sorry if I sound like an a$$. It just kills me to hear these practices. They have never been accepted practices in woodworking.

   Mike

1. 
   Crocusboy | Jan 23, 2006 08:18pm | #8

   I guess the only thing I'd add that hasn't been stated already is the orientation of the growth rings relative to the face of the board.  Stated differently, quarter-sawn material will consistently remain flatter than slab-cut boards.

    

   My personal experience echoes that of others.  If the wood hasn't moved since its initial oversized machining (always a good practice, if one has the time...), its likely stable enough to bring down to its final dimension, edge machining, etc.

   Marty

5. 
   ring | Jan 23, 2006 10:17am | #5

   Assuming, and it's a critical assumption, that your material is at equilibrium moisture content and looks nice and flat, you can make the panels without cutting and reglueing.  Plane it down as much as the raised profile will allow.

   DR

6. 
   joinerswork | Jan 23, 2006 04:45pm | #6

   Forrest,

   One thing that may be helpful, is to plane the stock to slightly more than its final thickness, then sticker it, and let it rest for a couple days.  If there is any inclination for it to cup or twist, you'll be able to correct it, and then plane to final thickness.  I usually leave 1/8" for final planing, panel stock seldom moves more than that amt while it is "resting".  No need to rip and rejoin.

   Regards,

   Ray

7. 
   QCInspector | Jan 28, 2006 12:31pm | #13

   Leave the panel stock full width, just try to take approximately the same amount off each face of the board when thicknessing. That will keep any stresses, if indeed there are any, in balance. And the easiest way to see that is by judging how much the boards that you cut up for the door frames or cabinet moved when you ripped them to width. If they didn't curl, twist, cup, bow, etc., then neither will the panels. If they do move a lot when cut then they may have, as suggested earlier, reaction wood, or have not been properly kiln dried. Oak is usually stable where as Maple seems to enjoy twisting just that little bit more than I generously allowed for when rough cutting. Especially when I don't have much extra.:-)