Replies

1. 
   RW | Nov 22, 2002 04:51am | #1

   Assuming we're talking routers. If it's a big mushroom, kick the speed down to 10,000 or whatever the lowest setting is. Router table, use a sturdy fence, pay attention to keeping the feeding edge tight to the table. If your fence has vertical members, featherboards clamped to the infeed and outfeed sides are almost a critical issue. Take cuts in multiple passes, and make sure your fence has a big enough throat to accomodate the bit. If your bit is not equipped with the back cutter, keep a piece of scrap handy and test your cuts first. Have the scrap marked for the depth of cut and as you near it, tap the fence in gently until you just kiss your pencil line on the scrap. Start with end grain (in most doors, the top and bottom of the door) and rotate the piece around counter clockwise so you finish with straight grain to help avoid tearout at the corners. Before you assemble, stain and finish the panels before they go into the rails & stiles. This will help you avoid lines showing down the road if / when the panel moves.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 22, 2002 06:02am | #2

   Thanks. I'll try and follow your directions exactly.

2. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 22, 2002 11:04pm | #3

   I don't quite understand your suggestion about pencil marking the scrap piece and tapping the fence in gently. Please explain

   Thanks much

   Ken

1. 
   RW | Nov 23, 2002 01:35am | #7

   On a panel raiser, the more bite you get on the bit, the deeper the cut, both horizontally and vertically. On a RP for a door, you set the depth of cut to give you a desired reveal - is the panel flush, protruding, etc. The edge is usually only a 1/4" in width, so you mark where that 1/4" dimension has to hit to give you your reveal. Basically it's relationship to the rails and stiles. As you near the mark on the scrap piece, you can loosen one side of the fence and just gently tap it back away from the bit a little at a time until you get the cut just right. I use a rubber mallet and gentle taps. If you're off on the panel, you just ruined the reveal and have to remake the whole panel. So try it on a scrap. That's maybe a little better explanation of my initial post.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 23, 2002 02:04am | #8

   Thanks again. I had a different plan in mind. I'm using the same test panel for each slightly deeper cut. I thought when near the final cut the test piece would lead me to the desired result. Since reading your latest post I now have some doubts. Is your method intended to safeguard against the possibility of  misjudging the depth of cut on the  final pass?

   Ken

2. 
   LRutherfor1 | Nov 23, 2002 12:37am | #4

   I agree with all RW posted, but one thing that I would add is to run the stock through the router slowly.  The faster you run it, the more chance you have of tear-out, or kick-back.  Trust me as someone who knows, the feel of a piece of stock coming off the table and hitting you or the wall behind you at a gazillion mile per hour is not pleasant.

   Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)

1. 
   nigelUsa | Nov 23, 2002 01:00am | #5

   You could scare all by using the RAS with the craftsman moulding head!!! I must admit to getting some good results with this method!

2. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 23, 2002 01:28am | #6

   Thanks Len. I have begun the routing and so far so good. I am moving the stock very slowly and taking very shallow cuts.