Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 11, 2013 10:47am | #1

   Maybe vs. Probably

   You might be able to recut the ends, but it is more probable that doing so will result in tearout at the long-grain edges. If you can match the profile exactly, you might be able to add backer strips along those edges to minimize the tearout, but keeping the backer strips firmly in place would be a challenge.

2. 
   IdahoDon | Apr 17, 2013 12:54pm | #2

   There nothing difficult about cutting a raised pannel and a good setup will result in a decent cut without a lot of tearout.  The problem is it doesn't sound like you are familiar with what constitutes a good setup or you wouldn't be asking.   Much less desireable is using a verticle router bit, wich is a fraction the cost of a normal raised pannel setup, but I'm assuming this is what you're thinking of using.  It's doable, but do it carefully and use a good deal of smarts or it will turn out badly.

   I use a number of verticle raised pannel bits since they are useful for a number of cuts, not just on raised pannels, and without a doubt I'll predict that chatter and tearout will be your biggest enemy.

   I use a simple router table fence that's 32" wide and about 18" tall for this type of project.  It's quite simple to hold the pannel tight against the fence to minimize chatter and you'll want to use a large number of light cuts.

   If you aren't used to using a raised pannel bit the odds of your door turning out good without practice is nearly nill.  Glue up a practice pannel to get over the learning curve.

   Even with good results you'll have a decent amount of sanding so don't get completely down the finished depth with the router since you'll be removing additional material with sanding.  With any tearout you'll double the amount of sanding so if the lightest cuts still result in tearout, stop well short of the final depth and make sure to use a sanding block matching the curve to preserve the correct look.

3. 
   Rob_Sp | Apr 19, 2013 06:06pm | #3

   It can be done

   What you want to do is make a series of climb cuts taking small amounts of material until you reach the desired depth. Set a stop on the fence, you only have to cut in a short distance on the side that will blow out. The stop will prevent engaging too much material as the cut deepens so it dosen't run away with you. Once you reach the depth remove the stop and make the rest of the cut normally(against rotation). THe back end will not blow out as there will be nothing at the end to remove. Small cuts when climb cutting or it will take it away from you. 

   Another option is a counter profile backup block depending on the profile.

4. 
   IdahoDon | Apr 27, 2013 02:27am | #4

   Climb cuts with a raised pannel bit on an oak door?!  Holy cow - go ahead and try it and you'll quickly have the pannel thrown across the room - at least that's all I've ever seen happen when professional, well experienced cabinet makers and finish carpenters try it.  It may work with the thinnest of cuts, but I don't see a reason to do it that way when a sharp bit and normal cuts normally works just fine.

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Apr 28, 2013 07:08pm | #5

   Excellent point!

    For those that have little or no notions of their own capabilities or skills, or of that of the tools and equipment they work with, I would definitely avoid the techniques I described in my prior post.

   Regards

   Rob