Replies

1. 
   Routerman | May 05, 2005 03:36am | #1

   Expect adversity. Number of passes is so much wear/pass, much more than if you had the power to drive that cutter in the first place. A cutter working below its power and efficiency thresholds, will get hotter faster, burn your stock sooner and perhaps put you at risk Not what you wanted to hear, I'm sure..

   Routers

2. 
   nikkiwood | May 05, 2005 06:29am | #2

   This will work just fine if you get one of those vertical panel raiser bits -- which are really designed for routers in your power class.

   The hortizontal bits ( the 3"+ diameter) really require a larger router than the one you describe.

   With the vertical bit, you will need to rig a tall fence for your router table, and a feater board set up to hold the piece against that fence.

   I haven't used Azek, but I have used a vertical bit on 1/2" solid wood panels. I ran them through in about three passes.

   "I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
   -- Bertrand Russell

3. 
   hammer1 | May 05, 2005 06:59am | #3

   You should not have any trouble raising panels with a 1 1/2hp router. I've done it many times with a 1hp. You will have to make a few incremental cuts but I would recommend that with any router. You will have more difficulty if you use a speed control and run the router slower. Run it full speed and take four or five light cuts.

   The vertical bits are not my first choice for raising panels. The design of the bits mean that the entire edge of the carbide is contacting the work. This takes more power as the cuts get deeper. You also need a tall fence and featherboards or another way to keep the panel from rocking. If you move the fence in your series of cuts, you have to reset the featherboards.

   I have both styles of bits and raise hundreds of panels regularly. In experimenting with different bits, speeds, feed rates and methods of holding panels, I'll take the horizontal at full speed first. The horizontal bits take a shearing cut and holding the panel to the table is easy. All you have to do is move the fence back a little after each sequence. If you are using a very dense material like teak, you can both, move the fence and raise the bit until you reach the full cut depth. Do the end grain on one end first, then work counter clockwise around the panel to eliminate tear out.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   BArnold | May 05, 2005 09:33am | #4

   "... In experimenting with different bits, speeds, feed rates and methods of holding panels, I'll take the horizontal at full speed first. ..."

   A horizontal panel-raising bit a full router speed can be dangerous!  Just read the manufacturer's recommendation on the issue.  The larger the bit, the slower it should be run.

   Regards,

   Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting Click Here if you're interested in a good,inexpensive website host.

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

4. 
   frenchy | May 05, 2005 09:53am | #5

   DDay,

     Helpful hint!   Set your table saw up to cut off most of the wasted stock then use your router to do the final few passes..

     I've found though experiance that a lot of passes greatly increase the chance  of a mistake.  It seems a simple concept just to make deeper and deeper cuts on every pass.

      In actual experiance I've found it much better to make one pass to get a finished panel..  Try to achieve that...  If you double the number of passes it stands to reason that you'll double the chances of a mistake..