Replies

1. 
   mathiasraulf | Oct 25, 2003 08:37pm | #1

   Mikey, You don´t have to belt sand it off. Just orbitalsanding, after a good wash with mineral-spirits, coarse. Fill any cracks or voids with 2-component car spackle. Then spread contact cement on both laminate and countertop (the stinky stuff, use good ventilation, don´t smoke). And press down hard with a roller. To help position the laminate you can take round dowel sticks and lay them out, pull them out 1 by 1 as you go with the roller. remember: Not duration but intensity of pressure is what counts. Flush rout, 45 degree rout, hand-sand edge ... your done

   Mathias

1. 
   Steinmetz | Oct 25, 2003 11:47pm | #2

   Matt, Did the same with my old formica but just scratched it up with rough flooring sand paper.

   And instead of dowells,(Which will roll) I used triangular strips that I ripped on the TS. (Won't roll)

    These come in handy when painting to support the work away from the work surface.

    Usually when painting doors,I lay them all out on wooden horses (supported by the triangles)

   And prime all the doors on one face. By the time I paint 4 or 5, I flip them over and paint the other sides.  No marks shows

   .   Important: any time you paint doors, try to paint both sides in a short time or the doors may warp.   Stein.

2. 
   skyhook | Oct 26, 2003 02:47am | #3

   Matt,

   Thanks for the info, I got the same advise from the guys at "The Oak".  Looks like Monday will be a sick day to get this job done.

   Mikey

1. 
   mathiasraulf | Oct 26, 2003 01:07pm | #5

   Hi Mikey, hope you don´t get sick too - by the fumes. Our contact cement is the old "good" stuff, with a thinner that the street-kids in Moscow, Bogota and  Mexico City get high off. Kills your brain directly and that´s supposed to go for sperms/gene defects.

   But since we only use 20% of our brain potential - and I do have two lovely kids... let´s go to work.

   But seriously, I think the impact of all this chemistry around us on jobs is a problem. But who likes water-based?

   Mathias

1. 
   skyhook | Oct 26, 2003 04:34pm | #6

   Thanks guys for the feedback. The guys over on "The Oak" suggest washing the surface with lacquer thinner then scuffing with ROS.  With the lacquer thinner and the contact adhesive fumes I'll need to borrow a Scott Air Pack from the local refinery where my wife works, just kidding, but you've got to wonder how many of us are getting sick from our need for all these chemicals. 

3. 
   pigpen | Oct 26, 2003 06:54am | #4

   Had the same type of job about a year and a half ago. Haven't been called back so I assume it worked. Scuff sanding with belt or orbital sander coarse grit. Only problem was they made the backsplash out of 5/8 ply and couldn't find a tool that would trim close enough for the top edge. Ended up replacing the top edge with a piece of plastic moulding that matched the wall colour, scribed nicely with a utility kinfe and a bit of caulking as necessary. Good Luck!

4. 
   twotowers | Oct 27, 2003 07:07am | #7

   Hi,

   I did exactly what you are doing - last year.

   Belt sand with 80 grit belt. Make sure all areas are hit. Use lamanate glue and your done.

   There is no need to resurface or rebuild if the sufface is sound.

   When reinstalling applance be sure to silicone well as you could have water problems if you dont anticipate the problem.

   Go for it.

   Jim