Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | May 09, 2020 05:05am | #1

   If you aren't sure what kind of blade you have, there is a real good chance it's old and dull. Try a new blade made for redrawing. I have great results with a 1/2 inch woodslicer from Highland.

2. 
   gulfstar | May 09, 2020 08:36am | #2

   If you are using a guide it could be that the guide and the blade are not parallel. Start a cut using the guide and stop the saw and see if the rear of the blade is centered in the kerf.

3. 
   woodstock16 | May 09, 2020 08:53am | #3

   Not dull I just did not remember which my 3/8 was. It has not been used much and worked great on sawing out a 5" thick bowl blank. Thanks for you thoughts.

4. 
   woodstock16 | May 09, 2020 08:54am | #4

   I will check the kerf, thanks.

5. 
   muskokalayne | May 09, 2020 09:04am | #5

   I agree with John c2 woodslicer 3tpi 1/2 inch blade would do the job nicely and by the way there are excellent videos on resharpening bandsaw blades and I have had great results with it ,you may want to give it a try - here’s a link to the YouTube video by Brian Proctor that I found worked well https://youtu.be/9yhQiKOBx7E
   Layne

6. 
   mikefm101 | May 09, 2020 10:29am | #6

   If waste isn’t a major concern It’s also very helpful to use the table saw to hog out some of the kerf before using the bandsaw.

   Ripping a groove maybe an inch or so deep on both edges can lighten the load on the bandsaw and can help the blade track better.

   Mike

7. 
   cdesautels | May 10, 2020 12:51pm | #7

   I would check a number of things.
   1. Blade drift: To a partial test cut on some wood and than stop the saw with it partially cut and still around the blade. The kerf should be parallel to the blade. If not, adjust the fence and test cut until it is.
   2. Is the blade suitable for resawing? An 8" board will need a blade with a lot of space in the gullets to evacuate the sawdust. The suggestion for a Woodslicer is a good one.
   3. Slow and easy wins this race. Take your time and let the blade do its work. If you force it, the blade will wander and once that starts there's no way to recover.

8. 
   geedubbee | May 10, 2020 01:52pm | #8

   How far back is it moving? Your thrust bearing or surface should only be about the thickness of a piece of paper away. If the blade can travel back enough your guides may ruin your tooth set.

   I agree that for an 8" height a 2-3 TPI blade is about the most I would want to use. An exception might be a Woodslicer with a very slow feed rate if I were after a very narrow kerf and a very smooth cut. Carbide blades are another discussion but, it doesn't sound like they would apply to this thread.

9. 
   _mj_ | May 10, 2020 02:13pm | #9

   In cdesautels' post 2 above this one, his item #1 probably meant to say that the kerf should be parallel to the fence, not the blade.

10. 
    DRBWWing | May 11, 2020 11:49am | #10

    You could be looking at grain drift, where the blade wants to follow the grain, more prone to happen with either inadequate tension, dull blade, or not aligned for drift.

    A new blade and realignment usually solves the problem.

11. 
    cdesautels | May 15, 2020 03:43pm | #11

    Re: MJ's post.

    No, I meant parallel to the blade. On a properly tuned saw the kerf and the fence will be more or less parallel in the end but may not be square to the table. To adjust for drift you have to make the fence comply with what the blade wants to do. Of course this means that you need a fence that can be adjusted this way. Good fences can do this as a matter of course. If you don't have one, you'll find re-sawing challenging.

12. 
    gulfstar | May 16, 2020 07:28am | #12

    If your guide is not parallel/square with the table, how do you get to use the slots in the table using a miter gauge or a sled to resaw logs? Everything needs to line up, fence, table and blade.

13. 
    john_c2 | May 16, 2020 07:51am | #13

    I thought that slot in the table was to get sawdust out of the way. And for holding pencils

14. 
    gulfstar | May 16, 2020 07:56am | #14

    They work fine for that also, otherwise I would always look for my pencils . If the guide and table are not square to each other, that also bring alignment problems when you tilt the table, you end up with a compound angle between the guide and blade which makes resawing odd.

15. 
    oxmach | May 17, 2020 07:53am | #15

    Maybe check out this video on setup. I followed Alex’s directions and my 14 Delta cuts to capacity without any difficulty.
    https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU
    Cheers,

16. 
    revbob | Jun 03, 2020 12:09am | #16

    Check out this video from Ethan and a video he has on bandsaw drift when resawing. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W8k0_HP8srQ
    You’ll be surprised at what he does with a loose and maladjusted blade.