I’m finally stepping up in the woodworking world from MDF shelves and plywood bookcases to some real furniture. To that end, I’ve fallen in love with a hallway table with laminated bentwood stretchers.
My only problem is that I don’t have a bandsaw for curring the strips for the bending. (I’m on the lookout but no luck yet.)
Has anyone has success with using a tablesaw for this? I’m thinking a zero clearance plate and a thin kerf blade will work pretty well.
Thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
You can do it but you are limited to the width of the boards you can resaw by the heighth of the blade (you can run one side through and then turn the board end for end and cut through the other side. Unless your boards are really short you will not need a zero tolerance insert).
You will also waste more wood because of the kerf of the saw blade. Just make sure you resaw your boards wide enough to be able to run them through a planer to make them smooth enough to get a good glue joing.
I don't know how wide your stretchers are, but you might be able to lay up pieces of plywood edge banding which you can buy and wouldn't have to cut. You can get different species of wood, various widths, with adhesive or without, etc.
I'm curious how you plan to do the bending without a band saw to make bending forms?
Lance
Heighth is not a word.<!----><!----><!---->
Sorry, just one of my pet peeves.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Thank you for correcting my typo. Nitpicking is one of my pet peeves.
My apologies. I did not realize this was a typo.
Unfortunately, the non-word "hieghth" has come into common usage, even showing up on a number of DIY programs. I misunderstood your typo as an intentional use. I beg forgiveness.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Heighth is a word, it is just not good usage. So is ain't.
Somehow, I knew that my post would generate an endless torrent of benign observations. So it begins.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
I moved the "Heighth" topic to the cafe - more appropriate use of the forum.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Be careful resawing on a table saw! I do it all the time even thought I have a band saw. I like the stability. I recently cut a little grove out of my middle finger doing this!! Just about 1/8 inch deep! but that was deep enough to scare the crap out of me!. I did this because I stretch my table saw... I raised the blade to its near top height (th) (HA!). Well I was not use to this and I failed to think that day... not only was the blade higher, but it was closer to me in the face plate too... Well Zing! I have a new scare and was VERY! Lucky!!!
I do Suggest you get a UHMW Insert. It replace your current face plate. It is smooth as glass and fitted well will reduce the stress of pushing the board. The only draw back on these inserts I found is when using a steel colored blade. I little harder to see.
Rich
I recently cut a little groove out of my middle finger doing this!! ...1/8 inch deep...
Eek, that makes me grimace. I hope you change a work habit due to this and don't lose more on another job! Glad you didn't get hurt worse!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Thanks John, It has indeed It was a matter of familiarity I think with the tool.
Rich
YOW! It only takes a second. I got quite a bruise on my arm from some kickback a number of years ago. That was enough for me.As for resawing, I'm planning on using a featherboard to hold the work stable and I purchased a thin hard plastic push stick. (My usual homemade is was too thick.)After your story, I'll be double-carful.Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it goes.Mike
Seems you are attempting a huge step up. LOL! What other tools do you really need yet lack? Jointer? Thickness planer? And do be careful with all tools.I found table sawing to produce thin stock highly undesirable. There is huge waste, piles of sawdust. Thin wood will get hot, warp, & collect burn marks. It is slow. If you really want a bandsaw, consider a Delta 14-incher from Lowe's. Under $400. A height kit can be a future purchase. A larger motor can be bought later if you really want it. You may insist on a better, more expensive tool, but you really don't need it. Of course, you will need a thin kerf resawing blade.If you just can't go for the bandsaw, here is a suggestion: Make curved stretchers from commercial veneer. It can be had as thick as 1/8-inch. You can buy it even on ebay. You can make the stretchers as plywood by crossing the grain in alternate layers. It takes more glue. I suppose you can cut your cauls for gluing with a saber saw. Do you have that?Cadiddlehopper
Excellent. I never thought of getting the veneers. I have a Lowes, Home Depot, 84 and a WoodCrafters all fairly close to me. If I can't get what I want between them, I might as well buy a bandsaw anyway! Cadiddlehopper, (may I call you Clem?) you have my many thanks! This is a MUCH better idea than cutting them myself.Thanks,
Mike
Wow! You make me feel so good! You are very welcome. I hope that I really was of help.Cadid
mvealey
I have a 12 inch blade table saw I can saw 4 full inches, flip it over and get another 4 inches for a total of 8
But I don't suggest you use a thin kerf blade!
They wander and flex around so badly you wouldn't believe it!
Hi Mike,
I've attached a snapshot of the setup I use as a vertical featherboard when resawing; yes, the photo shows the jig being used with a bandsaw, but it can also be used with a table saw.
Its chief virtues are that (1) it keeps your fingers out the the blade's path, and (2) it holds the stock tight to the rip fence.
The jig consists of two pieces of Formica glued back-to-back for added springiness, and glued into a kerf in a piece of scrap as pictured.
Don't forget to use a push stick ; - )
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
yes you can and I have resawn using my table saw, even though I have a bandsaw. The main benefit is stability. Nice, even cuts. One, no two, important provisos. Must have zero clearance plate and your push stick. How are you going to get the thin strip through your blade when the clearance between the blade and the fence is perhaps 1/10 of an inch. I use a throw away wood pushstick. As you push your board through it will put a notch in the pushstick (fine) and prevent kickback, which could very easily happen in this application. good luck. pmm
I built a vacuum fence to resaw on the table saw. It works fine on walnut, but heat build up makes the think kerf Woodworker II blade warp about 1/32" on maple. Here's the link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37748&highlight=vacuum+fence
Try the ez smart and the Dead Wood Concept.
You can make a simple jig to do the same.
No reason to push the wood into the blades.
YCF Dino
Eurekazone.
Edited 7/31/2006 2:51 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
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