Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jan 31, 2006 08:28pm | #1

   Get Mike Burton's book on beginning veneer work. That's not the title but the technique is quite old and hide glue is another alternative but yellow glue is covered in Mike's book. A google search on hammer veneering will turn up more.

1. 
   Archibald | Feb 01, 2006 04:54am | #3

   I know that hammer veneering works with hide glue from the pot due to the quick cooling of the glue, but will it work with Titebond Hide Glue out of the bottle?

1. 
   RMillard | Feb 01, 2006 10:49pm | #4

   Archibald,

    

   Hammer veneering requires the quick gelling properties of hot hide glue. I wrote a brief description of the process at the link below.

    

   Rob Millard

   http://home.woh.rr.com/federalfurniture/

1. 
   RickL | Feb 02, 2006 06:42pm | #5

   Not sure where the other post on PVA and veneering is , but you might find Burton's book interesting.

    He did a Bombe chest of drawers with  PVA and a veneer hammer. "...but the rosewood veneer I did choose was too cantankerous for hide glue..."

   That's a quote from the book.

   He even talked about doing a table top 42" x 12 feet with the dry glue technique using PVA!! I have the book in front of me so I am accurate in my references.'

   http://www.metareview.com/product-veneering-a-foundation-course/0806928557

    

1. 
   RMillard | Feb 02, 2006 10:01pm | #8

   I have Burton's book and it has many fine tips in it, ( the use of fiberglass window screen to aid in drying veneers is my favorite)  but heating PVA glues, is not something I will ever do. Hammer veneering does everything reactivating PVA glue can do and more. As for the rosewood, cabinetmakers in the past were able to hammer veneer it without PVA glues. Mr. Burton should have tried sizing the rosewood with a thin coat of hot hide glue to stabilize it, and he wouldn't have had to resort to reactivating yellow glue. Also, rosewood is a naturally oily wood, and hide glue has a better track record of bonding oily woods.

   Rob Millard

2. 
   RickL | Feb 02, 2006 11:51pm | #9

   My point is there is no one right way to do somethings.

   Talk about not being on the same page or even the same book. In this book Burton likes using single sided corrugated cardboard to dry his veneer, page 39, 88.  Didn't see any mention of screening. What book are you referring to? 

    

3. 
   RMillard | Feb 03, 2006 03:13am | #10

   The screen is mentioned on page 41 in the bottom left hand side.

   I agree there is no right way to do something, as a long as the end result is the same.

   I'm still ( and will remain) very skeptical of reactivating yellow glue as a way to veneer.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

2. 
   sapwood | Feb 01, 2006 01:06am | #2

   Be very cautious when using this method. It can be successful with two-ply or paper-backed veneer but usually not with flitch veneer. There is too much shrinkage with the flitch stuff. This topic has been discussed here and at vacupress.com.

   I usually limit this technique to edge banding nowadays.

3. 
   gb93433 | Feb 02, 2006 07:20pm | #6

   The technique works if you do not burn the wood first. It has to get rather hot to melt the glue. Veneer that is sliced works best. Sawn veneer does not work very well with this technique because of the risk of burning the surface of the wood. You have to be able to get the heat to the glue.

1. 
   RickL | Feb 02, 2006 07:36pm | #7

   Burton suggests  180 degrees for white PVA and 250 degrees for yellow PVA.  That's fahrenheit. Burtons' book is pretty interesting. Nice to see some other options to use.

   Edited 2/2/2006 12:04 pm ET by RickL