Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Sep 28, 2006 01:07am | #1

   Getch

   Sounds like a you have a couple of old "slicks" there. 

   Sharpen them up the same way as any other edge tool:  bevel and 2­° microbevel.  Flatten the backs, and away you goooooooooo.............

   Jeff

2. 
   AdamCherubini | Sep 28, 2006 02:24am | #2

   What type of handles do they have? Do they have sockets or tangs?

   Yours probably aren't slicks per se, but they may have served a similar function. Slicks are usually wider and are very very long. They often have handles that make them 2-3 feet in length and are used to pare the planking of ships. They must have had other uses (like carpentry) because they are relatively common.

   If your chisels are thick and heavy they may be carpentry tools. If they are thin, they may just be large firming chisels.

   I feel modern woodworkers are missing the boat on chisels. You can do a lot with a chisel. I like a wide firming chisel for paring tenons (or even mortises) or even smoothing operations. For these jobs I like a very low bevel angle- like 20 degrees. Edge retention usually isn't an issue with a blade this big and this sort of work. Its not like you're chopping out dovetails with these things. While I'm a flat back sort of guy, you really don't need to have a perfectly flat back. In the past I've ground down chisels to get to the flat portion of the back or spent hours flattening. Except for learning this lesson, I think it was a waste of time. Flat backs make sharpening easy, but really don't have that much bearing on my work. I pare bevel down.

   Adam
   P.S. I prefer the look of dark old steel. So do many woodworkers and collectors. You may regret (as I do) putting your chisels on wire and buffing wheels. Try soaking them as found in kerosene for as long as you can stand it and even after you sharpen them. It really does help the steel.

1. 
   dtraversi | Sep 28, 2006 04:39am | #3

   Okay- I'll take the bait- What does soaking in kerosene do for the steel? No disrespect intended- I'd really like to learn something here.Dave

1. 
   AdamCherubini | Sep 28, 2006 01:11pm | #5

   I was told it did two things. My source is one of the best metallurgists in the country. Trouble is, I can only understand half of what he says:1) Soaking prevents/delays rust kerosene leaves beneficial stuff behind.
   2) Soaking for long periods can (unbelievably- maybe I misunderstood but i asked and this was his answer) convert rust back into steel.Now I don't think that means you can put a rusty nail in a jar and come back in a year and take out a perfect rust free nail. But I do think there is some chemical reaction taking place that's obvious stopping corrosion. What I'm thinking is that my chisels are all beautiful and shiny because they get sharpened. But I think microscopically, the chisel is at least lumpy if not porous and only the high spots are shiny. And I often use water to sharpen with. So I'm thinking the soaking helps prevent rust in the low spots. Out on the edge, a lack of corrosion should make the edge stronger. Anyway, that last part is my own theory.If you want to try it, suspend your tools above the bottom of the jar. Water can settle in the bottom and actually rust that exposed portion of the blade.Adam

1. 
   Getch | Sep 28, 2006 04:43pm | #6

   Thanks guys!

   They are socket type chiseld...very heavy and think. They are not slicks. Short handles with hand forged hoops.

   I like the tip on the K1 soaking. I'll try that.

    

2. 
   DCarr10760 | Sep 28, 2006 05:05am | #4

   Adam,

   Years ago I took a timber framing class from Jack Sobon at the Hancock Shaker Villiage.  We used slicks to pare tenons of large framing timbers, and a variety of other trimming jobs.

   Jack Sobon makes timber frames using traditional tools and techniques and has done a good bit of research, so I imagine that since he uses them that slicks were used in carpentry as you suggest.

   It's amazing what a precision tool it is if well sharpened.  Its mass really helps.

   David C.