In the recent FWW there is an article called “A Lesson in Basic Joinery” which gives tips on creating matching dadoes using a template. The idea makes sense, but the two areas that need to match are different widths. I could try drawing a centerline and creating a reference mark, but it seems like there must be a better way. Any ideas?
TIA
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Is this the article you're referring to?
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt098.asp
I watched the video and when you say "the two areas that need to match are different widths" I presume you're talking about the spacing between the dados? Instead of the equal spacing of the article template? If that's the case you could just make a template with a single slot in it. Underneath, on either side of the slot, glue and screw a fence perpendicular to the slot to register against the panel edge you're dadoing. When you make the template put the centerline of the slot at a nice round number from the edge (2", 3", etc). Then use scrap plywood spacers between the edge of the template and the bottom or top of the panel. When you get into the middle of the panel, rather than waste more plywood on increasingly larger spacers, put a small strip of your shelf stock into the dado you just cut and cut a thinner spacer to register from that shelf to the next dado location.
If you build it - he will come.
Thank you for responding. But I don't think I was clear. The desk organizer this project is for has a middle shelf of 17" and a top of 19-1/2". The top of the shelf dadoes need to be exactly above the bottom of the top dadoes.
The template matches these from front to back and to each other, but won't match them from the edges of the various pieces. Other than creating a center line on both the pieces to be cut are there any ideas.Thanks again.
Sorry I wasn't more help. I'll have to take a look at that issue to understand the problem better. If anything occurs to me I'll dive back in.
If you build it - he will come.
OK. I found the issue and looked it over this morning during breakfast. I understand the problem now. There's probably 20 ways you could do this. Here's the first 3 that come to mind - the first is pretty much the one you're already thinking about.
1) You're already going to have (or should have, I think) a center line drawn on the template for laying out the template slots. Run it completely across the template. Most of the line will get eaten up when you cut the slots, but it will still be there at the edges. FWIW, I'd put the line on the side of the template that you're planning on being the 'Down' side. Then with a centerline on the edges of the 17 & 19.5 panels, you can sight underneath and line them up with the template CL.
2) Skip putting CL's on your panels and do all the layout on the underside of the template. From the CL on the template draw 4 more lines. Two of them 8.5" either side of the CL, and two 9.75" either side of center. Then just line up the ends of your panels to those lines when you clamp the template on.
3) I may have missed something during my brief scan, but I didn't immediately notice a reason why his template length was 20". There seemed to be quite a bit of excess real estate on either side of the 2 outer slots. You could instead make the template 17" long. If while cutting your 17" panels to length, you use the same stop-block setup and cut the template to the same length, the edges are gauranteed to line up with the ends of your panels. Then cut 2 plywood spacers 1.25" wide. When you put the template on your 19.5" panel, put one spacer on either side of the template and adjust til the edges align with the panel ends.
I didn't read close enough to see how much detail went into describing the template construction and maybe these are things you've already considered, but here's another thought or two:- Attaching the fixed stop blocks or fence to the template underside is going to be critical. Those need to be absolutely square to the CL and slots.- I think it would be easier to get one piece of stock set square to the template rather than 5 smaller pieces. I would glue/screw a single piece to the template. Then after the glue dries, take a hand saw and cut away the parts of fence that span the slots.If you build it - he will come.
WOW. Excellent advice. Thank you so much for taking so much time to help me. As to the 20" template, I have no idea either. Perhaps due to the max width of the top. The more I think about it, the more I like your 3rd idea. This would seem to be the most accurate while minimizing the possiblity of the jig moving during clamping and routing.
I really like your idea about the stop blocks. That really makes a lot of sense.
This is the first Fine Woodworking Magazine I have purchased, though I have inherited some. Its quite expensive, but seems mostly worth it. However I found that as a novice the articles seem to leave out some details a newbie could use. Particularly in are article that seemed to be specifically geared toward one such as me.
Anyway, thanks again. I've just starting cutting and jointing the stock tonight.
Glad I could help. #3 is probably the way I'd approach it too but like I said, I just browsed the article so double check and make sure he wasn't somehow using the 20" template length for a particular reason. I didn't read enough to see if the dados in the top for the side panels, or the ones in the sides for the middle and bottom panels were supposed to be made with the same or a different template. It's possible he was counting on the 20" length to register against something as a locator for putting in one of those dados with the same template??
Have fun!
If you build it - he will come.
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