I’m finishing a mahogany mantle shelf. I want a close to the wood look with a bit more sheen that matte. I tried Watco, but it didn’t produce enough sheen. Any ideas? I was thinking about pure tung oil thinned with turpentine and a little varnish, but I’d rather have the advantage of the knowledge here ather than just guessing and experimenting with the proportions.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I really don't think you have to be fussy about proportions. You can take that Watco, add plain old polyurethane to it ( about 1/3 poly, 2/3 Watco), dump in enought mineral spirits to make it easily wipable,and off you go.
Here is a variation I found in a magazine 15-20 years ago, which is the wipe-on finish used by the legendary Sam Maloof (before someone put his name on a line of finishes). This is a verbatim copy of my notes, which I still keep around for anybody that's interested:
"Mix the following in three equal parts, adding enough paint thinner to the mix to make it easy to wipe:
1) Raw, pure Tung Oil (not a so-called "tung oil finish')
2) Boiled Linseed Oil
3) Alkyd Varnish (not polyurethane)
NOTES: Raw, undiluted tung oil is not easy to come by. But the last time I checked, Woodcraft still carried it in gallons (about $40). this stuff is really thick and viscous (like heavy motor oil). Note that products labeled "Tung Oil Finish" usually have only trace amounts of real tung oil, and sometimes none at all.
I never quite understood why he mixed both linseed and tung oil, but it certainly does produce a beautiful finish.
Alkyd varnish. This is still available, but you usually have to get it from a real paint store, and it is usually buried on a back shelf. Regular Polyurethane works just as well."
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
You might look at Waterlox original/sealer. It's a varnish, of a consistency for wiping that can be applied not to build a thick film. It provides as mellow gloss--not high gloss but a way long way from matte.
Second for Waterlox.
Steve and Stan,
Thanks for turning me on to the Waterlox. I did a test piece. I wiped on 3 coats and after the 3rd coat dried I steel wooled it then a coat of wax. Looks great, feels great too. Thanks for the excellent tip.
The Sam M. finish that I found goes like this;
1/3 boiled linseed oil
1/3 thinner
1/3 poly varnish
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled