Recently someone suggested that I use Waterlox Original Sealer on a sideboard of reclaimed pine that I am building. I’m not familiar with Waterlox.
Any comments or suggestions?
Recently someone suggested that I use Waterlox Original Sealer on a sideboard of reclaimed pine that I am building. I’m not familiar with Waterlox.
Any comments or suggestions?
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Replies
Waterlox is one of my favorite finishes.
You can brush, wipe, or spray it.
Normally, I brush it on. Usually use about six coats. follow with a light sanding with 320 grit and paste wax (briwax is one I use). It has a light garnet cast to it, deepening with each coat.
Only caveat is to try it on a sample first, pine is prone to "blotching".
You may want to start with a coat of shellac first, to minimize the potential "blotching".
My recommendation is to take an extra board from your project and try different finishes on it. Then you can select your favorite with confidence. Take your sample board to wherever the project will live and choose from there, lighting has a bigger effect than you might think.
Whatever you choose, take some pics and share them with us when you are done.
Good Luck!
Mike
I agree with MB on the waterlox, it has been one of my favorite finishes, especially over Walnut. I have not used it on pine, but wouldn't think that it would cause blotchyness as it is a clear coat. Typically the blotchy appearance in pine is evident when a stain is applied. A coat of shellac isn't a bad idea though as it may help slow the absorption of the waterlox and start the build quicker. I typically apply waterlox with a rag and let it sit for 10-15 minutes then wipe off the excess material.
Since I started to spray finishes I've moved away from waterlox in favor of lacquers and waterbased. Last night I started the finishing process on a Walnut Armoire, using ML Campbell Magnalac. After one coat I had the build of almost 3 coats of Waterlox. My next coat of Magnalac will be my last coat. A real time saver as I save the sanding and vacuuming the piece between each coat. Also the Magnalac, along with many other good finishes that can be sprayed is dry to the touch in about 10 minutes and sandable between 30-60 minutes.
I did a smiler walnut bookcase using waterlox which I sprayed, it took 4-5 coats and was sticky for over an hour. Runs and sags are a problem when a finish stays viscous for that long. Don't get me wrong I still like waterlox and am planning to use it for a set of dinning room chairs I have coming up. If your not set up for spraying I do think Waterlox is on of the best choices. If your not set up for spraying and plan to build furniture for $$ or plan to do a lot of projects I would really look into spray equipment if you don't already have it.
Aaron
For clarification: the coat of shellac (to head of blotching) should be a light wash coat, 1# - 1.5# cut.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Waterlox is a manufacturer of clear finishes. They started as floor coatings. Here is their website: http://www.waterlox.com. They have lots of info there.
When discussing "Waterlox" you need to know which of the many Waterlox brand items are being referred to.
In general their products are varnishes made from phenolic resin and tung oil. The phenolic resin makes for a dark (amber or yellow) varnish. Be sure to test it on your item before using. On light woods, it can be too yellow for some folks. In addition the yellow will tend to cause some woods to splotch.
Waterlox is a varnish. It comes in three flavors--original/sealer which gives a mellow gloss. The Original/Sealer comes thinned as a wiping varnish, and the Satin and Gloss have a bit more solids content. It's good stuff in my opinion.
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