Replies

1. 
   troys | Dec 26, 2007 11:53pm | #1

   I just got one for Christmas that has rip teeth for cutting dovetails and it works great. It is the one that costs about 78 dollars from the Japan woodworker. I also got a small dovetail saw with very fine cross cut teeth that has "The Japan woodworker" painted on the side and it works well for fine cross cuts. If you have not used one of the japanese style saws I would try one of the replaceable blade saws. You might get one with rip teeth and one with cross cut teeth. the rip teeth would be about 15-18 teeth per inch and the cross cut about 20-25 teeth per inch. Have fun

   Troy

2. 
   Samson | Dec 27, 2007 12:20am | #2

   I've been very happy with this one for rip cuts:

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-JS340&Category_Code=TSJ

   This one (Dozuki "Z") is a good cross cutter and general purpose:

   http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=850&mode=details#tabs

   This one has been good for bigger sawing jobs:

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-JS310.XX&Category_Code=TSJ

   This one is fantastic for flush cutting:

   http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15%2E815%2E0&dept_id=13087

1. 
   captainkidd | Dec 27, 2007 03:16am | #3

   I happen to of the "Dozuki "Z" as posted above. I got it as my first Japanese saw because of the reviews on FWW a few months back. I really haven't had a chance to use it too much but it does cut pretty nice.B.Kidd

3. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 27, 2007 11:50am | #4

   some recommendations..

   I only use the Japanese saws now. Of several different styles and prices. I have found that the inexpensive ones seem to work as well as the expensive ones except the expensive one are somewhat more forgiving if you hit a knot or some strange grain in the stick. (You can break teeth off very easily.)

   I use the inexpensive ones because if I break a tooth I'm not out that much money and I have a new sharp saw. (Two or three saws for the price of one).

   By the way, they can give you a REALLY nasty cut! Do not ask how I know!

   I'd say pick up a inexpensive Dozuki (back stiffener) and a Vaughan
   Bear Saw to experiment with and see if you like using them before getting anything expensive.

   I do not think they are better than a good traditional saw but I have better control with a pull saw. But then again that's just me...

   Have fun and watch out for your fingers!

1. 
   dgreen | Dec 27, 2007 12:18pm | #5

   The Vaughn Bear is a pretty good saw for the money I'm glad the blades are replaceable. I tried to use it to cut a turning off on the lathe and the teeth came off just as slick as you please. Thought I was being so clever too.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

2. 
   dherzig | Dec 27, 2007 06:28pm | #6

   I also use the cheaper ones that I find in the local hardware. However, The Japan Woodworker sells some with hardened teeth for use with Western hardwoods. Any thoughts about the value of these extras?

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 27, 2007 11:45pm | #7

   Any thoughts about the value of these extras?Not really. As I said, I have expensive ones and lost a tooth or two on them but they still work.. OK, so you have to 'tap' the tooth root a bit to be flush.I find that the EL-Cheepos work as good for me..

2. 
   danmart | Dec 28, 2007 01:22am | #8

   Years ago I was flying into Japan quite a bit. I looked into the Japanese saws and found they looked the same and some of the cheap ones cut really well. Confused.. I wrote a letter to Toshia Odate thru FWW and he answered me. He offered to write some letters in Jananese to his friends who made chisels in Miki City(southern part of Japan) if I wanted to go down and buy a set at the shop. Well... it was impressive. I spent some yen.

   While I was there, one of the guys who spoke some english told me about their saws and I got a few to make my journey "worth the travel time" from Yakota AFB to Miki City. For cutting small features like pins and dovetails he said just get the saw with most teeth and no set. I took his advice and I love japanese saws. Been using them since 1978. I've replaced the originals of course but they were everything I had hoped for.

   Once you get used to them, they are great for cutting dovetails. Everybody is different and they just don't work for some people. After all is said and done you still measure twice and cut once.

   good luck with the saws

   dan

1. 
   dherzig | Dec 28, 2007 01:35am | #9

   Konichiwa. O'genki des ka? I too was back and forth 7 or 8 times a year for many years. Did you ever get down to Shimonsendori in Kyoto to watch the old time craftsmen work there? Using their toes as vises while sitting on the floor to work.

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 28, 2007 10:22am | #10

   Depending on your application, you need to consider different criterium.  For a flush cutting saw, you're best off with a thin flexible blade with either no set or set on only one side as not to mar the surface.  I prefer a double-edged flush cut saw with set on one side.  That way I can cut in either direction and the set prevents the saw from binding.

   As for the joinery saw, as long as there is enough of a depth of cut to allow the cut to be completed.  For the dovetails, just about any saw will do.  Tenons are a different story.  I would choose a saw with a reinforce back.  TPI is important, though most saws with a back are in the same range - not much choice.  More important than blade thickness is the set - the amount the teeth are bent.  More set equals a wider kerf and a saw that is less prone to binding, but also harder to saw in a straight line.  I don't see much importance in the length of the handle, as long as it's comfortable in your hand.  I like pistol grip saws over the straight handles.  One of the most important features of a saw is the length of a blade.  A longer blade allows a longer stroke and a speedier cut.

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

5. 
   vincentedwards | Dec 28, 2007 06:19pm | #11

   The Dozuki Z saw from Rockler was reccomended as the best crosscut/ Dozuki saw that also rips well enough to do dovetails. I have one and it's a really nice saw... very sharp and accurate.

   I also love Gyokucho Brand saws- I have their Ryoba double edge hardwood saw.
   It has rip teeth on one side and crosscutting teeth on the other... very handy.
   Make sure you get the one for hardwood- it has more TPI to cut harder wood.
   I got mine through http://www.japanwoodworker.com

   These two saws will cost you less than $100 for both and will do just about anything.
   Don't go wild and spend too much money on a handmade saw at first... you can
   do any woodworking task perfectly with the saws I've mentioned. If you master these and
   want the absolute best someday, then look at handmade saws in the 200-300 dollar range.

6. 
   mathewson | Jan 14, 2008 05:29am | #12

   bbobo,
   My opinion is fairly different than those posted. A high quality saw cuts much faster and straighter than a cheap one. These saws are made for either for soft wood or hard wood. A lot of the saws sent over here are made for soft wood. There is a significant difference in performance between the two. I prefer the handmade ones. I buy from Hida Tool where I can specify either hardwood or softwood. The cheaper ones are over hardened which makes them sharp in the begining but brittle so the teeth tend to break off.