I picked up a Miller Falls No 18 (Stanley #7) the other day and I am clening it up. The question I have is about the tote. It is clear that I am going to have to make a new one and I was wondering if anyone had some pointers. I can rough out the shape faily quickly, but what I am wondering about is getting the corect angle for the long screw that attaches it to the plane bed.
By the way, the bed fairly flat (some lapping required, but not bad,) the japonning is about 90% present. Iron in good shape etc. I am planning on doing a little painting after all the rust is off to keep it from coming back and cleaning. Front knob is good. Based on what I can tell, I am dating it to about 1929 or so. The chip breaking has the MF split with “PAT APP’D FOR” cast into the back, but a patent number stamped to the front. My guess is that the chip breaker was cast before the aptent granted and was a part in stock that was used up after the patent granted.
I would appricated any information that he group can supply. Thanks,
Replies
Drill the hole first, and cut out the tote around the hole, lligning the piece at the correct angle to the hole. This also helps align the grain with the tote. If there's enough left of it, you can use the old tote as a pattern.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Just so you know some totes are available on the market today if you do not wish to make your own you may be able to find one that fits. I did this with and old Ward hand plane of my grand fathers (kept the old tote around just in case i wanted to go back)
Doug Meyer
There was a Christian Becksvoort article in FWW years ago that talke about making replacement handles for tools--one was a tote for a jack plane. Becksvoort carved facets in the handle for grip and texture. If you have a bevel gauge, screw the tote bolt into the plane bed, match the angle with the bevel and transfer to the work piece. I second the recommendation to drill the hole before cutting it out. Good luck. Tom
I have chuck of rosewood that is more than large enough for the tote. It seems a shame to spend money for a part I should be able to make.Dan Carroll
Dan, just a little info. First if its an 18 Millers Falls it would be sized equal to a Stanley #6. Second if it was made close to 1929 then it will have the words Millers Falls cast in a circle around the knob. These planes are a little harded to date than Stanleys.
As to the tote angle, put the bolt into the plane with out the tote and measure with a bevel. If you dont have a bevel just let me Know and I will measure one of mine.
If you're trying to find the angle of the screw, run a dowel through the tote and place the bottom of the tote on a framing square. If you have a protractor, you can find the angle directly and if not, you can use a sliding bevel to set the angle. At that point, the numbers mean nothing. If the tote doesn't exist anymore, thread the screw (original or replacement) into the hole on the plane and lay it on its side so you can determine the angle. A Stanley replacement tote may work and they have them at Woodcraft- maybe they'll let you trace the outline, hole location & angle.
You are right -- it is the same as a #6 Stanley -- that it what I get trying to have two conversations at once at the office. It does not have the Miller Falls stamped into the sole around the knob -- that would make it a little later. Most of the tote is around, just already patched to three places and with a big piece missing out of the top of the handle. The knob and tote are rosewood. There yoke/fork on the adjusting screw is stamped and not cast whicH I understand also dates it for a little later.Dan Carroll
Dan, if ya really want to make a tote Phillip M. from down under told us how several months ago in perfect pics and detail. Crank up the search, it's there. If ya don't then Highlandwoodworking .com (new name for highlandhardware.com) has most for the 4 to 7 Stanley types. All the best, Paddy
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