I am building a cedar chest for my niece for a wedding. It will be made of red oak, with three drawers underneath that will have soft maple sides(drawers) and cedar drawer bottoms. My question is what type of finish can I use to protect, and not interfere with with the cedar? Do I leave the drawers unfinished? What about the inside of the chest? Do I leave it unfinished as well? I’m concerned about odors. The cedar will not completely line the chest, but come to within two and one half inches from the top where a cedar tray will rest. My niece prefers old furniture that is not plastic looking. I’ve been hearing a lot of issues with bleedback with red-oak and oil. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Replies
Bones,
Concerning the cedar drawers, DON'T put anything on them. It is not needed. On the drawer sides I would put a thin coat or two of blonde shellac. While some people will want to draw and quarter me for telling you to finish the maple portion of the drawer, I always ( lightly) finish drawers. This apparently is a great debate. This is just my opinion and method.
I would also give the interior a light coat of shellac.
Concerning the bleed back or weeping of oil, why not just use something else?
I hate to sound like a broken record, but you could always do a shellac finish followed by a nice wax coating. The finsh can remain thin and have a lovely glow to it. I have a cedar chest with this finish and give it a light wax once a year.
If you prefer, you could use a thin coat or two of shellac followed by a basic varnish. It won't look like plastic if you keep your coats thin.
Let me know what you decide to use. We can kick a few ideas around.
Peter Gedrys
Thanks for the reply. I'll give that a try. For the drawer sides would you use 1lb or 2lb cut, and same question for the rest of the chest?
Bones,
A two pound cut would be fine. One or two thin coats would be more than enough for the drawers.
If I was doing the top it may take a few more layers to build to my satisfaction.
However, a thick coating is really not required. After curing lightly sand the surface with 320 or finer. This can be followed by wax. You can apply the wax with oooo steel wool or a grey or white scotch pad. Follow this by a good buffing.
You can also apply wax with a cotton cloth only for a higher sheen.
Remember, these are just suggestions or a road map. Don't be afraid to alter it to your own personal taste.
Peter Gedrys
I'll give it a try.
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