Replies

1. 
   rporcaro | Sep 21, 2005 07:06am | #1

   In the mission style, quartersawn white oak is the clear choice.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Sep 21, 2005 02:58pm | #2

   I have always used red oak before, since white is not available at my usual local lumber mill. His excuse for not carrying it was that "it's hard to work with." I'm just finishing up my first project with WO -- a Stickley-style desk -- made from some recycled timbers mixed in with some new wood I got from a supplier I usually don't get to (too far away, odd hours, etc). I could'd be happier with the result. Much nicer finish since WO is far less open-grained than RO. And, the kicker is that WO is WAY easier to work with (I use a lot of hand tools. Half-blind DTs are a real pain in RO and "no problemo" in WO.) Planes & scrapes like a dream. Lighter, too. The only drawback I noted is that it's more brittle, i.e, not as tough, as RO. You might want to beef up any tennons to accomodate this.

3. 
   forestgirl | Sep 21, 2005 07:21pm | #3

   Ditto to Mike's post.  The rays in red oak aren't anywhere near as nice as those in white, and the porosity really makes a difference in the final appearance. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   scooter1 | Sep 21, 2005 07:35pm | #4

   QS Red: Rays are not as pronounced, but they are there, and are beautiful. I also like the red color, and it stains up better to the color that I like. Red has pores which fill up with stain, so you have to be carefull to wipe those out, and wait an hour and go back and wipe again, because there is bleed out.QS White: Traditional choice.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 21, 2005 09:39pm | #5

   "Red has pores which fill up with stain, so you have to be carefull to wipe those out, and wait an hour and go back and wipe again, because there is bleed out."  That's why I use a wetsanding method to stain red oak.  Sandpaper + Watco + a little elbow grease -----> wonderful finish.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   jackplane | Sep 21, 2005 10:20pm | #6

   red oak , compared to white oak, is often case hardened from poor drying practices which leads to warp and reaction wood.

    

5. 
   wghulley | Sep 21, 2005 10:42pm | #7

   Arts and Crafts furniture is traditionally fumed with ammonia instead of being stained. The rich brown color of fumed oak is dependant on the amount of tannin in the wood. White oak has more tannin than red oak so therefore is a better choice for the fuming process.

6. 
   billsams | Sep 22, 2005 01:38am | #8

   Here's a a few pics of a kitchen I'm finishing up. Used white oak for all the reason stated above by others.

   I highly recommend checking the reference in the previous issue of FWW regarding "resawing oak to obtain highest fleck". I had to resaw most of the "quote quartersawn" because it was actually rift sawn. Fortunately I had purchased 5/4 material so that resawing was possible and still get 3/4+ thickness. This would not be possible had I purchased 4/4.

   Good luck.
   Bill

   
1. 
   notDusty | Sep 22, 2005 06:49am | #9

       billsams ,

                          Very nice looking kitchen cabinets . The doors are way cool , beautiful grain , huge rays and fleck , nicely done .

                             regards            dusty

1. 
   billsams | Sep 23, 2005 12:46am | #11

   Thanks Dusty!

7. 
   woodworker3301 | Sep 22, 2005 08:14pm | #10

   I've had pieces of red oak so porous you can put one end into a glass of water and blow bubbles.  That's not really my idea of a good time, but...the kids were impressed.  My personal preference is White Oak.

   Good Luck.