Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Jun 28, 2024 03:08pm | #1

   I was planning a pair of Morris chairs when #205 came out and I used some of the measures from the article. My overall plan was pretty synched with GP's, but with recurved arms, back, and splats. I also skipped the plugged screws and ran splines... it was a "no-metal" time in my shop life back then. I made a test leg like the article but it looked odd so I went with square cores and a "handshake wrap" with only 1 line almost vanishing on each face.

   The chair as drawn (and as I made mine) is both too deep and too wide. I wish I had done a more complete mockup instead of trusting some of the measurements.

   To convert to a fixed back you could just make the back as wide as the gap between the rear legs and notch the armrest at your chosen angle. Instead of a pivot pin at the bottom you could make it a blind dowel joint. You could also adopt the "prarie settle" wraparound for the back of the whole thing.

   For transporting the chairs having the back come off/ fold down helps a ton. making the back as designed but with a single fixed pin might be the best of both worlds for you. As much as mine are recliners, they have never had that angle changed since built and placed.

   
2. 
   user-65513 | Jun 28, 2024 03:43pm | #2

   Rich, I'm going to agree with what MJ said. I purchased the same plans you did and feel that the chair is too deep and too wide. I'm 6'3" and pushing 250 lbs. I would try to find a chair that you find comfortable and take measurement from that. I also think that getting rid of the reclining back would complicate the construction. I don't adjust mine from the upright position either but it does make moving it around simpler. Mine just barely fits through a 36" doorway anything narrower and it has to be turned on it's side.

3. 
   hotdogman | Jun 28, 2024 08:53pm | #3

   I have made a Morris Chair with bow arms and I have been sitting in it for 25 years. Vary comfortable.... A few suggestion I hope you find useful. 1) You need to consider the thickness of the cushions when designing the chair. They are usually pretty thick in the 6 inch range or more for both the back and seat. Plush and comfortable. So the depth of the seat considering the back cushion should be around 21 inches which will give you a 16 inch sitting depth with the back cushion in place. 2) provide at least 2 inch or more seat incline from back to front which makes the chair very comfortable. 3) Make the back of the chair as designed and just leave the back in place. I have never moved the back once I found the sweet spot. I think to do what you are mentioning would take a redesign of the back legs and all. It may not be worth the trouble. I hope your project turns out well.

4. 
   Fisher2Fisher | Oct 13, 2024 12:12am | #4

   Thanks for all this advice folks!
   So, in the end, I went with the AFD plans as they came. Your advice about going with the recliner design but just never needing to adjust it makes sense; and the knockdown feature of a removable back especially.
   I did one mod though: I added 2" to the leg length. I'm 6'6" and prefer a higher seat.
   I'm using zigger springs for the seat deck and want to use foam and dacron and then feathers/down and leather for the show cover. (And hotdogman, thanks for the cushion design tips.)
   I'm curious if anyone else has used feathers in any of their upholstery?
   Thanks again!
   Rich

5. 
   rob_ss | Oct 13, 2024 12:19am | #5

   Late to the party but you might enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVnpsERv3hM which covers this sort of design.