Replies

1. 
   sawdustom | Nov 29, 2004 03:00pm | #1

   Jeff,

   I bought a reference straight edge about a year ago. After doing a lot of internet searching I found a 3 foot steel straight edge online for about $50. I got it from a high performance engine parts supplier (I can't recall the vendor). The straight edge is used by engine builders to check the "head deck" on rebuilt motors. My straight edge is warranted to +/- .001 inches over its length.

   Good luck.

1. 
   batorok | Nov 30, 2004 07:14pm | #10

   searching, it looks like you bought the engine edge from goodson.com
   http://www.goodson.com/g5-bin/client.cgi?G5genie=1&G5button=1&mcat=47&cat=267&invoice_id=

2. 
   jackplane | Nov 29, 2004 05:07pm | #2

   Aluminum or steel angle from a big box or hardware store.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/29/2004 10:13 am ET by JACKPLANE

3. 
   mlbfreestyle | Nov 29, 2004 08:08pm | #3

   I have the advantage of working for a machine builder.  I am able to borrow the Starret 6' steel straight edge.  I used it recently to re-adjust the gibs on my Grizzly 0500.  It made quite a difference.  My tables were tilted inward causing the jointer to cut a convex edge.  It now cuts nearly dead-on.

4. 
   Michmesquite | Nov 29, 2004 08:54pm | #4

   I have a Starrett 36" straight edge and it is a very useful tool in my shop, but I wish I had popped for a 48" unit.

   I know there are less expensive straight edges such as the one mentioned above for $50. These are precision tools and get the longest certified one you can afford.

   _________________________________

   Michael in San Jose

   "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell 

5. 
   jackplane | Nov 29, 2004 09:57pm | #5

   "The molecules of wood can be quite small."

     I'm not sure what that means.It is possible to setup a jointer accurately without an expensive straightedge. The proof is in the cut. Once cut, the wood can be measured to detect runout in a variety of ways, one of which is taut string running lenghtwise.

     I think working with .000000001" in wood is ridiculous because wood moves and always will, whereas metal moves far less and movement can be detected in micro-increments.

6. 
   jmc | Nov 30, 2004 12:41am | #6

   A few years ago they had an article in FWW about making a straight edge using (maybe) 3 lengths of MDF and putting screws in them. You found 3 points in a straight line by putting the lengths of MDF together and adjusting them each time. I don't remember exactly how it went. Anyone know which issue it was in?

   Thanks

   John

1. 
   wrudiger | Dec 01, 2004 05:04am | #11

   jmc,

   Don't know about FWW, but the MFD & screws approach can be found in the Taunton book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" by John White.  I used that approach and was quite happy with the results - my Grizzly is within .0015 of flat end to end, and as is mentioned elsewhere here the wood is going to move more than that just looking at it!.

   FYI, the book is great overall, with detailed tuneup procedures for bs, ts, joiner, etc.

   Wayne

1. 
   jmc | Dec 01, 2004 08:01pm | #12

   Thanks- I'll find the book

   John

2. 
   Mackwood | Dec 02, 2004 05:57am | #13

   RE: John White's book

   I recently built a set of those MDF "bars" to set up an 8" Rockwell jointer that was damaged, tweeked and repaired.  They worked great!!  I also took his hint about jumping on a jointer table to a very intense and scary level using a sledge hammer and bundles of plywood.  Took a .010 bow completely out of the outfeed table and got it to virtually .000!

   I probably have 300 lb of WW'ing books and magazines and only two books actually live in the shop.  "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" is one of those two.

   Regards,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

7. 
   81treehouse | Nov 30, 2004 06:00am | #7

   >>I would not pay good money for anything less tha .000000001" over its length. The molecules of wood can be quite small.>>

   Actually, you are wasting good money since the larger water molecules probably would screw up any attempt at accuracy. :)

    

    

   A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
1. 
   Pondfish | Nov 30, 2004 06:21am | #8

   Larger water molecules?

   "Wood" is primarily the dried cell walls of the plant, and the cell walls are made primarily of cross-linked sugar and peptide molecules.  These are waaaaay larger than water molecules.  We're talking about something the relative size of a baseball (water) compared to the ivy-covered walls of the friendly confines of Wrigley Field.

   0.001" in 3 feet is plenty accurate...try seeing 0.001" from 3 feet away!

   But really, we shouldn't be talking about tolerances anymore.  The recent election shows that the only acceptable tolerance is intolerance.... ;-)

    

    

8. 
   jackplane | Nov 30, 2004 05:04pm | #9

   thanks. they already own any thread/discussion here, but maybe i will if i can get the LN plane!

9. 
   Vikingvood | Dec 02, 2004 06:00pm | #14

   If anyone happens to be going to or in Seattle Wash. there is a hardware store called Hardwicks http://www.ehardwicks.com/ & they also deal with quality used tools,  they currentley have some long, (10 ft & 12 ft) used Starrett straight edges & a large (18") machinst square among alot of other quality tools. & by the way its not listed on there web site but they sell ln planes & saws for less than any other store or web site  I have seen (and yes they do have them in stock). you can contact them thru there web site because they do not list all the items they have or call them, besure & checkout ther about us site http://www.ehardwicks.com/aboutus/About.htm

1. 
   Mackwood | Dec 03, 2004 07:06am | #15

   Hardwicks--candy store for almost anybody!  Did you check out their prices on LN planes?  When I finally get around to buying some, that's where I'll get them.

   They have some sizes of high quality extruded brass hinges at exceptionally low prices.  Need a tapered bit and countersink for a #2 wood screw?  They have 'em. Abrasives?! I've never seen a selection like they have--and reasonably priced too!

   Whenever I'm close, I stop in and just wander around for a bit.  I always see something that I missed before.  It's kind of like going to the San Diego Zoo; you really need more than one day to see it all! 

   I once asked a lady there if any of the used tools up on the wall were for sale.  She said that the price for all of them was (???) eight million dollars but the building and the land came with it.  Great sense of humor!

   I love that place but sure wouldn't like to be the one to do their inventory!!

   Regards,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 04, 2004 07:13am | #17

   Realize this is off topic but ...I started at the UW in '61. Lived in an apartment building right behind Hardwick's store. It was old *then*!I don't think they know what all they have. Only place to compare is McClendon's in Woodinville as far as inventory.Oh - there's a place in Bellingham that I forgot about .... can't remember the name now but it's not too far from the Grizzley show room. They don't carry much in the way of quality tools but make up for it in the diversity of just plain *stuff*............
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis

1. 
   SRToolguy | Dec 04, 2004 07:47am | #18

   The only affordable reference device that I know of for flatness is a rock. Metal workers will know this to be true woodworkers might not. Of course checking a tool for flatness with a rock seems a little absurd but if you use your rock to check your straightedge you can use most any straightedge with a resonable amount of confidence just by knowing how far off your straightedge is and compensating for that amount.

   O.K. here's a little quiz to help broaden your horizons...

   Whats the rock, and what is it commonly referred to as?

    Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

1. 
   Roohdawg | Dec 04, 2004 03:11pm | #19

   I think is is granite. I use it as a gauge fixture.It'll be awright!

2. 
   EdHarrow | Dec 04, 2004 07:06pm | #20

   Granite, known as a surface plate.  Where do I go to claim my prize ;-)

2. 
   Mackwood | Dec 06, 2004 05:59am | #21

   I'm real sure they don't know what all they have!!  Had a friend of mine used to live in Marblemount and has a carving knife making business (Diobsud Forge).  He told me he reluctantly quit dealing with "Hardwicks"  because they couldn't get orders right.  Cost him too much sending tools back and forth.

   It sure is a great place to shop around!!

   Regards,

    

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

10. 
    user-450633 | Dec 04, 2004 01:24am | #16

    Short of engine builders edge or similarly machine shop edge(see Enco ,MSC and others- Strarret being one of few that are superb) you can use a piece of sheet metal say 18 to 20 gauge that has been cut on a well maintained or newish machine and sandwich that between pieces of ply or similar for stiffness.