Replies

1. 
   Ed_Pirnik | Mar 23, 2011 12:13pm | #1

   Matching Stain

   It looks pretty close to something along the lines of Minwax Early American - quite frankly. If it were me, I might actually try some on an inconspicuous spot.

   Looks like a simle stain and satin poly job to me. Not my first choice for furniture in general - I'm more old fashioned - but I think that might give you some sort of a match. But if you're refinishing the whole set, why bother matching? Just use the same recipe for all the pieces and create your own new matched set.

   Best,

   Ed

2. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Mar 23, 2011 02:51pm | #2

   So you are "repairing" and

   So you are "repairing" and then trying to match the finish that is on there? That is not exactly "refinishing" as in stripping the finish and reapplying a good new finish. You say you don't have a sprayer which makes me wonder if you are thinking about trying to just apply a new finish over the old?

   Have you asked if they would just like to paint it?  It is probably a very serviceable bedroom suite, but ,,,,

   Are you going to strip it and finish? If so, as was said, you can put back on what you want.  Wiping on the finish works well for not dealing with drips and runs.

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 23, 2011 03:00pm | #3

   Looks like it has been refinished before based on the very blotchy colors.  That's roughly what you get with Minwax type stain all in one can.  You can do better, but you would need to strip off the old finish with chemical stripper.  After the old has been removed, be sure to neutralize the stripper, and lightly sand.  Then I'd suggest a dye instead of a stain.  Dye won't give nearly as much blotch.  Then I'd use a wiping varnish for the top coat finish.   Waterlox is good, or you can thin any oil based varnish to use as a wipe on.   

4. 
   JohnCujie | Apr 08, 2011 10:12am | #4

   I sanded and stripped the finish, repaired and re glued all the damaged places.  I asked General Finishes about a dye stain and they recommended a water based stain for this type of wood.  So I did that.

   There seemed to be an incredibly brief time to work with the material, I could barely complete a dresser top before it set.  No way I could ever do an interior full size door.  Is this normal?  Is the dye stain similar or is it a bit easier to work with?

   I did the wipe on varnish (McCloskey's Spar Varnish and mineral spirits, 50-50) and it turned out fine.  I have to work at getting a rag that won't leave lint as that seemed to be a problem in places where I changed direction.  Any tips on a better applicator?  I used pieces cut from an old t-shirt.  Found out later the lint comes off of the cut ends.  Who knew.

   Thanks,  John

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 08, 2011 10:35am | #5

   The general finishes dye stain is quite a bit different than ordinary dyes.  For some reason they have mixed the dye in a binder--a waterborne acyrlic, I assume.  That gives it quite a bit different working time as you noticed, and also gives you a "get it right the first time" or your in trouble.  For stain with pigment there is a similar problem.  The better choice, which they won't tell you about since they don't sell it, is to use a pure powdered water soluble dye.  You dissolve the powder in water mixing to to the concentration you want.  Then you can apply it very wet--I use a sponge.  That gives you plenty of working time.  And if there are glitches they can often be fixed without a full stripping and redoing.  Using the flood on the dye approach has much less risk of getting ugly blotching that a stain with a binder. 

1. 
   JohnCujie | Apr 08, 2011 11:10am | #6

   Thanks Steve, good to know. I'm still getting a handle on these products.  Do you have a brand recommendation for a powdered dye?  I'm out in the sticks so I need to order anything of quality by mail.

   John

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 08, 2011 04:52pm | #8

   W.D. Lockwood is the long time leader with very many color choices.  It's sold under the Moser house label at Woodworker's Supply, and is the manufacturer of Lee Valley's dyes.  Also available, particularly at wood workers stores, is TransFast.  (Don't confuse this with the liquid concentrates TransTint.  These dissolve in many solvents, making the choice of a top coat more challenging.) 

2. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Apr 08, 2011 04:49pm | #7

   You can use non-embossed paper towels. And you should put enough of the varnish on the cloth so it is "wet", and then wipe. I tend to do it with the grain, but others  just swish around.  You don't say how many coats of wipe on you did, but it really isn't looking its best until 6-8.

   If you use T shirts, make sure they are all cotton. And roll them up so the torn/cut edges aren't exposed..