Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Nov 28, 2020 08:16pm | #1

   I think you'll be better served at Fine Homebuilding, link at the bottom of thIs page.

2. 
   esch5995 | Nov 29, 2020 08:14am | #2

   First question I would always ask would be; Are they builder grade cabinets? In my opinion 20yr old builder grade cabinets aren't worth the effort.

   Second question is; what are you hoping to accomplish? Are you looking to change the color or just trying to freshen up the look?

   The advice below is assuming you are only looking to apply a new clearcoat and does not deal with color changes which requiring stripping or the use of tricky glazes.

   Conduct a close, critical inspection, look at back inside corners, where the 3/8" particle board tends to fail first, make sure face frames aren't separating, drawer boxes especially if they are vinyl wrapped particle board, etc.

   If after that you wish to proceed with your plan, remove all hardware but leave the doors installed to thoroughly degrease the cabinets, paying close attention to cabinet near the cooking area. After degreasing, remove the doors and drawers, then thoroughly scuff them with a red Scotchbrite pad, Scotchbrite pads tend to get into molding crevices better than sandpaper. Then apply a waterborne finish such as General Finishes High Performance Satin preferably HVLP sprayed, scuffing with a gray Scotchbrite pad between coats. Apply a minimum of 3 coats.

   Life expectancy of any refinished cabinet is probably 5-10 years. Factory finishes use catalyzed conversion varnishes/lacquers and are often baked to harden them even further and simply can't be duplicated in the home.

   Me personally, I remodel kitchens for a living and would never consider undertaking such a project, I can't count how many times I've sold jobs where homeowners started such a job only to cry uncle halfway through, or were disappointed in the end result.

3. 
   DRBWWing | Nov 29, 2020 08:27am | #3

   All well and good, but I was recently quoted $16,000 for new doors & drawer fronts, painted. This is a kitchen built by me with the help of a kitchen designer, who estimated the final product as. $25,ooo kitchen. That was 8 years ago.

   I’m going to build them myself and may get them painted at a pro shop.

   I hear you about the commercial films, but with something a pigmented lacquer + crosslinker, it’s KCMA quality paint.

   We don’t know if Vincent is simply the “homeowner” you describe or someone with ability and experience. It’s easy to determine a new topcoat, regardless of who he is, the main issues are is he set up for spraying & how good is he at spraying paint?

4. 
   vincent843 | Nov 29, 2020 01:27pm | #4

   Hi, thanks for the reply. I built the cabinets myself with Birch and applied several clear coats of nitrocellulose lacquer. It has been close to 20 years ago, the cabinets are in good shape, just the lacquer turn more yellow overtime and some spots got affected by water.
   We are going to painting the kitchen so have some thought of giving a fresh look of the finish.
   So the question is about the finishing and I am trying to avoid the lacquer fumes in the house. I learned that lacquer doesn't go well with other finishes but itself but also heard that if that the lacquer is old age then should not be a problem. Any advices?
   Thanks.

1. 
   esch5995 | Nov 29, 2020 02:36pm | #5

   I don't think a new coat of clear finish will solve your "yellowing" problem it's more than likely a combination of sunlight affecting the Birch as well as the lacquer.

   Most finishes can be applied on top of cured lacquer just not the other way around. The solvents in lacquers will lift most other finishes but waterborne finishes are pretty safe over most well cured finishes, just don't expect it to remove the yellowing.

5. 
   vincent843 | Nov 29, 2020 06:17pm | #6

   Thank you very much esch5995.
   I will test on one piece with less noticeable. Vincent.