Hi All
I would like to re-stain, my 8 year old, shop made kitchen cabinet doors from a natural stain to Golden Oak Gel stain. The existing doors are shaker style with White Oak framing and ¼” oak veneer plywood panels. The finishing as I indicated is with natural stain and the finishing is with (water based) Gloss Polycryclic Protective Finish. I am concerned that stripping the existing door finishing will not allow the Golden Oak Gel to adhere effectively to the wood as the grain is now sealed. Any opinions out there as how to proceed or am I stuck in making new doors. Thank you
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Replies
Sanding to bare wood is where you'll need to be for the new stain. White oak is closed pore, so you may be able to get there. I'd start with a stripper for the polycrylic before sanding. I'd try it out on the back of a single door as a nightmare test to help decide which way to go.
Thanks, very much appreciated.
I use gel stains most often over at least a couple of coats of shellac.
My experience has been that the key to controlling gel stain is to prepare/sand consistently and adjust your grit (within reason) to control how much pigment is left in the wood.
You should certainly experiment first, and where I would start is to either use the back of a door or make up a couple test panels if you have leftover materials from the initial build. In separate sections, I would sand the topcoat to 150, 180, and 220 and try applying a gel stain to each, being sure to wipe it off after the application. Expect that 150 will register as darker than 180 and 220 will be the least colored of the three.
With that information in mind, you can decide if you're getting close to what you want or if you want to try a more saturated color for the gel stain (since the results probably all look a lot less intense than the gel stain over raw wood) to get closer to your final goal.
If you have to sand all of those doors, all of those panels -- well, it's a big PITA job. I wouldn't. I know it's not what you asked, but there is a strong chance that you'll do a ton of work and end up less happy with the result than when you started.
Thank you for your reply and your opinion. You are correct, a whole lot of PITA work and I know I won't be satisfied with the final out come. I have decided to stop looking for a miracle and build new doors.
I hadn't thought of that. But I'd rather build new than strip, sand and refinish too.
I often use fragrance oil to remove stains in the kitchen cabinet door
There is another way - purchase a varnish that has the desired colour. There is nothing to lose from this approach as you are otherwise either going to have more refinishing work to do than the effort of re-making the doors.
A great many pigmented varnishes are available and you might be surprised how well they can turn out.
My process would be to try a test on the inside of a drawer face if they can be detached, or on the inside of a door otherwise. Sand with medium/fine grit then apply finish. A coat of shellac might have advantages if compatibility is a concern, but this is a test piece after all.
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