We just bought an old piano (1917). It’s made from Walnut. The original finish is alligatored & ugly. Anybody tried to strip & refinish a piano?? I’ve done a bit of refinishing & stain matching, but never on walnut & never a piano. Any tips will be appreciated. Also does anyone know what the original finish was back in those days? Thanks, Jim
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Jim
Is this a black "piano" finish or a clear one. The clear ones would probably be either French polish or cellulose lacquers at that time. If it's black, they are a LOT of work, but there was an excellent article if FWW a number of years back - the modern technique is basically to use automotive-type acrylics and treat the piano like a car. Never done a piano that way but I have done faux lacquering of cabinets using the technique - the results are seriously impressive
Scrit
Thanks to you and all others who responded. I should have mentioned that it has a clear, not black finish. I will do the shellac test as soon as it's delivered, (I supect it is shellac & I've had experience cleaning up/stripping old shellac) snow has spooked my delivery guy (don't blame him) so it won't arrive in our house til next week. Again thanks to you and everyone who chipped in with advice.
Jim
The word on the street is, if lacquer thinner will take it off, it's lacquer. If denatured alcohol will take it off, it's shellac. Otherwise it's some flavor of varnish.
What Dunc said is true. I have re-built MANY Pipe Organs and can Tell you that it is with 99% certainty that the ORIGINAL finnish was Shellac, May have been altered since tho.
TO strip, first wash down with NAPTHA, this helps ungrime it. 2nd the orange smelling stripper will work well. You may have to apply it then cover an area with saran type wrap. Let it work, don't rush it. Now the fun part, old tooth brushes, floor scrub brushes ( I even buy new ones and saw them into pcs, on the band saw, between the rows of bristles) plastic scrapers, old credit cards, putty knives..WHATEVER WORKS ..remove as much goop as you can..NOW Repeat. Then 2/0 steel wool and a bucket of denatured alcohol, plenty of rags, keep it pretty wet where you are working (a small area at a time Remember.) let it dry, and look over the whole thing, you do not have to get to RAW wood, just no major areas of thick film left. When you think you are done sand lightly with 180 or 220 (use a backing block for flat areas, and folded up pcs. and fingers for details). Seal coat TWICE and go away for awhile. Comeback and double check your results ..like what you see? 2 coats orange shellac/ follow with wax.
DO NOT GUNK UP THE IVORIES>>>!!!! If they are loose DO NOT PRY THEM OFF. A hot knife (thin spatula) will get them off to be reglued WITH HOT HIDE GLUE ONLY.
Don't forget to polish the pedals too.
This is a BIG job, requires you to be diligent and do not let the stripper dry out allow yourself a few days to do it.
And I can't believe I'm saying this but Formby's might be an OK thing to reamalgate this finish. Try somewhere that doesn't show. It might not be walnut but mahogany also. If it's shellac it is also easy to strip and refinish--I use denatured alcohol to strip rather than naphtha.Gretchen
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled