I’m restoring an old piece of antique Maple furniture. I’ve got it all glued back together using Liquid Hide Glue, that was addressed in another post.
I’ll be using an oil based stain and an oil polyurethane (satin or semi gloss).
Any advice on removing the existing finish? Is sanding the only option? I’m wondering if it’s possible to just degloss the existing sheen and just apply new stain. Is this feasible? Trial and error?
Thank You.
P.S. I’ve seen some online info that suggests using a sanding sealer. Another recommended using a Gel stain. Good ideas?
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Replies
It depends on what the finish is. If 'antique' as in over 100 years old, it is likely to be shellac, in which case you can tell by seeing if it tacks up with alcohol.
Sanding sealers are largely shellac based.
I have never tried to refinish or even stain new maple but if planning to stain a piece previously finished with shellac, I would clean thoroughly with a cloth soaked in alcohol then sand gently with 180. I'd not try to get to totally bare wood, just a nice consistent look, preserving as much of the oxidised top layer as possible.
I would also try all of this and my stain on the back of one of the back legs of the cabinet before committing to the look on the rest of it!
Thank You. I will follow your recommendations.
I tried the alcohol and the finish did not tack up. Maybe just remove the current finish by sanding?
Oil based stains will wipe away completely over a finished piece. Even on maple that has been stripped to bare wood, it will only color areas that have a scratch pattern left by sandpaper. The finer the grits, the lighter the coloration. Anything beyond 120 grit starts to be very light. The only finish that I know of that would add color over an existing finish is tinted varnish, but you loose the grain of the wood, it’s like painting it.
I have built several pieces form maple. I use only dyes, as stains are much too "iffy" on maple. It is amazing how the grain "pops" out on dyed maple.
BTW, I did a table top for a table on the covered deck 5 years ago, and the color has not changed - it gets about 3 hours per day of direct sun. I DID use marine spar for the UV protection.
It's likely lacquer, you can check with lacquer thinner. Lots of stuff from the 1940s and later has this finish, including a lot of the solid maple furniture from reputable companies from that age.
You will not be able to stain with any of the lacquer thinner on it. You can paint it or use a tinted polyurethane without stripping the finish or you can strip and sand the finish down and then do what you like.
I'm in a similar boat, thinking of stripping some nice maple pieces. Not sure it is worth it but it's on my project list.
Unless the furniture has a dark, non-maple look I'd guess that the "antique maple color" is just age. (pics would help) IMO trying to stain maple is a mistake. If you like the current color just clean it, dewax it, scuff sand, and apply your poly.
If you want to change the color this does not apply...and if you want dark furniture maple is not the best place to begin.
I took one of the pieces to a local paint store where one of the employees does color matching. He gave me some oil based stain that was a match. I sanded (RAS, Detail, annd Hand) off the old finish and applied the new stuff. Satin wipe on oil based poly.....several coats and I'm done.
Thank you for your responses and recommendations.