Replies

1. 
   roy.unit8c | Jan 16, 2022 11:30am | #1

   Which category from the attached article does this pertain:
   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/31/all-about-repairing-finishes

2. 
   rcblab | Jan 16, 2022 11:35am | #2

   I would say, beyond repair. I am new to refinishing furniture. I guess I am just concerned about whether I am going to "mess up" something if I strip this new coat of poly, apply another coat of stain, if needed and then reapply the poly.

3. 
   roy.unit8c | Jan 16, 2022 11:48am | #3

   Have you thought about inlaying or filling the scratch with gesso? If done right, it could add interest and be easier than removing all the other finish.

1. 
   rcblab | Jan 16, 2022 12:58pm | #4

   Gesso? Never heard of it but I am googling it now.

1. 
   roy.unit8c | Jan 16, 2022 01:07pm | #5

   Read this article:
   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/02/22/gesso-highlights-carvings

4. 
   rcblab | Jan 16, 2022 01:54pm | #6

   Thanks for the info. I am looking into this...

5. 
   jharveyb | Jan 16, 2022 07:36pm | #7

   Probably the most serious negative characteristic of polyurethane is that it is unrepairable. If you want the top to look like it did before it got scratched, you will need to take it back down to bare wood, restain, and apply the poly again. Nothing else will make the area disappear and appear like the rest of the top.
   Varnishes may dry to the touch overnight, but it takes them significantly longer to harden/toughen, which is a polymerization process usually requiring a slow absorbing of oxygen. The wiping varnish I use, Waterlox Original, needs to harden for close to a week before I do anything with it. A recent FWW article recommended waiting at least 2 weeks before rubbing it out. It sounds like your finish was dry but not cured when it hit the door frame.

6. 
   elmaduro | Jan 17, 2022 12:48am | #8

   A little late here. But if the question is: should I do a complete refinish because of ______ (fill in the blank), the answer is generally 100% yes.

7. 
   rob_ss | Jan 17, 2022 02:11am | #9

   You have nothing to lose trying to fix this if the wood is not damaged too badly.
   I would try and scrape back a neighbouring area of poly so I can see the underlying stain, then reapply stain to match as close as possible. Make sure it dries properly.
   Apply poly to the area. You can, once it is dry, cut polyurethane like car body paint (at least, you can with the water based stuff - I don't use spirit based) - you can blend and polish with 2000 grit wet and dry until it matches well and then polish with acks or EEE or your favourite polishing paste.
   If it does not work then you can always do the old peeleroony and strip it back, but given the effort involved, I'd try the repair first. Bet no-one will ever notice.

8. 
   lat_axe | Jan 17, 2022 07:02am | #10

   Life lesson: abandon the hard coat finishes such as the poly and adopt a nice oil. Oil finishes are easy-peasy to fix; no complete re-strip & redo.

   Another advantage of the oils - they don't make the furniture look as if it's made of plastic. :-)

   Lataxe, banging an oil drum.

9. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Jan 17, 2022 10:42am | #11

   Film forming finishes don't 'protect' the wood. All they do is become scratched and cloudy and make the project look like rubbish over time, with the exception of shellac which actually can be repaired/refreshed. The rest of them are a waste of your time and can result in catastrophic failure like you're experiencing now. And if you think you hate poly now, wait until you start trying to remove it which is the only rational course of action at this point.

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 17, 2022 03:19pm | #12

   Wholeheartedly disagree.

1. 
   lat_axe | Jan 18, 2022 03:31am | #13

   'Moring John,

   I can only suggest a brief squirt of Liberon Finishing Oil into your right ear, which may free up your thoughts on this subject. :-)

   But you're right if you're suggesting that some hard coat finishes have their place. The ultimate used to be French Polish - shellac rubbed on via many coats until a brilliant sheen and depth was seen. I was taught to do it by a neighbour who French polished for Waring & Gillow for over 40 years, not including his five years at sea during WWII.

   In some ways, the French-polished item is the justification both for using such a hard-coat finish and also of why such finishes are perhaps "difficult" so best avoided. They can look fantastic but one scratch and there's a ton of work to fix it.

   I know that some circumstances will tolerate nothing else but a super-tough hard coat, marine varnish for sea-going woodwork being the obvious example. But for furniture, especially that which will be used hard .......

   Perhaps the best finish of all for a really hard-used item like a kitchen table is: none at all, just a regular wash down with water and a very mild soap.

   Does the maker of the item intend it to be purely functional, purely decorative or both? Perhaps this is the first question to ask oneself before choosing a finish?

   Lataxe