Need some refinishing advice. I am refinishing a china cabinet for a friend and the finish is badly dried and cracked (see picture). We estimate that the unit is from about 1930, but don’t know if it’s ever been refinished. I haven’t seen it yet, so I’m not sure if it’s solid wood or veneer. Not sure of the wood type either.
What’s the best way to remove the old vinish…sanding it or using chemical stripping? If chemicals, what’s recommended (and preferably safe). If it’s veneer, I’m concerned about the sanding since it’s not hard to burn through to the substrate. I’m not worried about keeping the same stain or color and would prefer to get to the raw wood underneath anyway then restain.
thanks,
Replies
The first thing I'd do, and it's 100% safe, is to try some alcohol on it. If it's shellac, it'll come right off, and your problem is very simply solved.
I would try a little alcohol on steel wool. You might also try turpentine and see what you get. If it is shellac it will just dissolve. You will have some cleaning to do. And make sure you are not in closed space, have ventilation and don't have open flame around. The turpentine and steel wool will at least clean the surface well and that may give you a better idea if it is veneer or not.
The most likely finish is lacquer. Almost all furniture of that age was finished in lacquer.
To test, put a drop of lacquer thinner on an inconspicuous spot. Let it set for a couple minutes and then gently rub with a Q-Tip. If the finish softens, it's lacquer.
That said, if you really want to get down to the wood and start over, use a chemical paint remover. I recommend one that contains methylene chloride as it is the fastest and does the most complete job. Follow the directions carefully. There is no "safe" paint stripper.
You are right in not considering sanding the finish off. Sanding almost always leaves a residue of the finish that has penetrated into the wood. When you go to re-stain, this residue will impede the absorption of the new stain giving you an uneven coloring. Second, the surface may be veneer. Even though veneers from that era at fairly thick, you run the risk of sanding through. Then you have a real problem.
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