Replies

1. 
   ring | Apr 19, 2006 10:06am | #1

   CWT,

   My shop has often dealt with this situation, and we usually break it into 2 separate boxes.  Since you will have a shelf over the refrigerator in any case, it hardly entails extra materials, and it allows you to install very easily.  Each box can be completely made in the shop, face frames, doors and all, then slid into place, and add your moldings as required.  The bottom "box" for the fridge has no back and no bottom.  This system assures that the doors will fit their openings, and makes for a lot less cursing and sweating at installation.

   DR

2. 
   Corry | Apr 19, 2006 05:44pm | #2

   cwt

    If your  crown is tall you can take off some of the hight of your cab still leaving enough to mount  the crown to the  cab and cut a small angle on lower back of the reffer box. This will allow you to stand the cab upright. Then cover the cut out with base molding. But first map it all out on a piece of ply to see how big of a cut out is needed and if your base will cover.

   C

3. 
   GaryW | Apr 19, 2006 07:29pm | #3

   cwt,

   I build Euro style cabinets (w/o face frames) with separate, "applied" end panels. So my refer cabinets consist of one or two end panels and a separate cabinet that goes over the fridge. I put all that together on site, whereas I build all the other cabinets in my shop.

   In the two attached photos, the refers are next to another floor-to-ceiling cabinet, with a single end panel. I scribe to the wall and fasten the back edge of the panel to a cleat, and likewise scribe the bottom of the panel to the finished floor and toe-screw it from inside.

   The Fisher refridgerator has a top-hinged cabinet above the appliance; and the O'Connor fridge has cabinets that are separate from the refer enclosure (the panel above the doors replaced the louvered panel supplied by the manufacturer).

   Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

   
1. 
   Telco_joe | Nov 08, 2006 02:48pm | #4

   I am building my first fridge cabinet.

    

   How deep should I make the cabinet? I measured 28 inchs to where the door opens. It that the appropriate depthso no to imped the opening of the doors? How much should I leave on the sides and top?

   Thanks.

1. 
   GaryW | Nov 08, 2006 05:33pm | #5

   The cabinet depth in relation to the refrigerator can be a matter of design - how much of the appliance you want to enclose. The Sub-Zero refrigerator in my photos above is meant to be built in; and I suspect that yours may not be, but could be enclosed in cabinetry. You should first check the manufacturer's design and installation specifications, which are available online. Make sure your surrounding cabinetry will allow you to open the doors fully enough to access and remove the drawers inside. If you have any questions, visit your appliance dealer and do a test run of your preliminary design.Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

1. 
   Telco_joe | Nov 08, 2006 06:21pm | #6

   Thanks Gary

   I will continue on and check the specs.

2. 
   rompus62 | Nov 08, 2006 06:45pm | #7

   I make the cabinet as close to the start of the door as possible, usually you can go right up to the door. Take a piece of wood and sit it against the side of the fridge and see how close you can get without the door hitting it and go with that depth. As far as side and depth make it as tight as possible, I usually go 1/8 at the sides. Most fridges have the hinge sticking up at the top so I usually go about 1/4 inch to the highest point. If this is for yourself have you considered a trim kit to cover the doors with a raised or flat panel, this is always a nice finishing touch.

1. 
   Telco_joe | Nov 08, 2006 07:26pm | #8

   Yes it is for myself. I am nit sure wheter I like the 'covered' fridge or not. I think we are going to just build it in and leave it as is.

1. 
   smslaw | Nov 08, 2006 10:00pm | #9

   My advice is to not try to make a really tight fit.  You'll need to be able to get it into and out of the space.  I just built a cabinet around my fridge and I left a good 3/4 inches on each side.  I suppose you could make a removable face frame that fits tightly. 

2. 
   xmike | Nov 09, 2006 01:26am | #10

   Wow!  What a great looking job!  Did you do the design as well as building the cabinets?

   Mike D

1. 
   GaryW | Nov 09, 2006 05:30am | #11

   Thanks. The layout was the architect's - on both projects, but the details were my own. I did design the island in the O'Connor kitchen.Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

1. 
   xmike | Nov 09, 2006 06:36pm | #12

   Well it's great looking.  We are in the kitchen planning stage and when I showed the picture to my wife, her eyes lit up.  A copy is now in our planning file.

   Mike D

1. 
   GaryW | Nov 09, 2006 06:46pm | #13

   Well, I'm honored. Thanks again.Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

3. 
   xmike | Nov 15, 2006 05:18pm | #14

   Hey Gary,

   When you made the cabinet doors for the OxConnor kitchen, what edge profile did you use for the inside edge (the rail and stile edge that overlays the panel)?  Based on the picture that you posted, SWMBO says "that's how I want the new kitchen you're going to build for me to look!".

   Any other details that you'd be willing to share will be very much appreciated.

   Thanks

   Mike D

1. 
   GaryW | Nov 20, 2006 12:08am | #15

   What you see between the rails and stiles and the flat panel is an applied, quartered, "rope" molding. The attached photo should show that detail better than my previously posted photo.

   I can't recall where I purchased it - Enkeboll, White River, or ? - but I think I had to quarter it myself from half round pieces (making it not quite truly quartered).Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

   
1. 
   xmike | Nov 27, 2006 06:07am | #16

   That looks great.  Thanks for sharing the details.

   Mike D