Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 25, 2003 06:56am | #1

   Fred - I'd pretty much follow your plan if they were my cabinets.

   I give them a good cleaning with soapy water then another cleaning with mineral spirits or naptha to get rid of any remaining oily (greasy) dirt. Then sand all the surface lightly with 320 grit to remove the surface of the old finish. Then wipe on a coat of the stain, just to renew the color. Let the stain dry completely (odor free) and then apply a few coats of poly. The cabinets will look like new (or very well cared for at least)!

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   oldfred | Feb 25, 2003 03:57pm | #2

   Thanks for answering, Paul.

   I've been chicken to try the coat of stain, thinking it might show up blotchy.  Good to hear someone thinks it's the way to go.

   Have you had any experience with the polyurethane gels?  The brand I have is Mastercraft.  Thinking of using that after the stain.  It sure goes on easy, and looks great on a new door I finished.  Time will tell on wear.

   I've pretty well run out of excuses and have to "get at it".

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 26, 2003 05:59am | #3

   Fred - I haven't tried any of the gel poly. Do they make it a gel so it's easier to apply on the sides without making a mess? I haven't paid too much attention and was wondering what the strong points of a gel finish are over a regular poly/varnish?

   As long as you don't sand through the old finish, the new coat of stain will not soak in and blotch - but you have to be sure it's good and dry before you apply the poly so it won't smear. The binder in the Minwax is strong once the stain dries - you'd have to use lacquer thinner or stripper to get it off.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   oldfred | Feb 26, 2003 07:17am | #4

   Paul,

   According to the literature on the Mastercraft can, the benefits of the poly gel finishes are no drips, runs, or overlapping.  Easy to apply with a rag or foam brush (I used the foam brush) and wipe off excess with a rag.  A guy who was demonstrating it for me used a foam brush and wiped it down with paper towels. Thin -and clean up - with mineral spirits.     Claims to cover 800 to 1,000 sq. ft. per gallon, and I believe it does.  Beautiful satin finish, and about the easiest I've ever used.  Maybe because the excess is wiped off, it doesn't seem to collect  dust while drying.   The manufacturer is S.J.Bailey & Sons, Inc., Clark Summit, PA 18411

   I managed to get sidetracked on the cabinet job today, and know I won't get to it for the next couple days.  But I'm looking forward to doing it.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 28, 2003 01:21am | #5

   Fred - thanks for all the info. It makes sense that the gel makes less mess and sounds like it's pretty easy to work with.Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   oldfred | Feb 28, 2003 03:01am | #7

   Paul- thank YOU.  This was my intro to participating in the forums,  and  already I'm hooked.    Great place to learn.

3. 
   davamoore | Feb 28, 2003 01:49am | #6

   Fred, you're right, the gel varnishes are very easy to work with.  Keep in mind, each coat of a wipe-on wipe-off finish is significantly thinner than a coat of finish applied by brush (one reason for the quick-drying aspect and minimization of the dust that gets into the finish). 

   In one sense, that leads to a lot of waste, and you'll need to be prepared to deal properly with all of the rags.  You'll also need to apply two to three coats of gel finish for every coat that you might have otherwise applied by brush, in order to get an equivalent degree of build and protection.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

4. 
   oldfred | Feb 28, 2003 03:14am | #8

   David - I agree with what you've said and think I should be putting on another coat or two.  I've been wiping the excess with paper towels.  Works fine.  This house has a hot air furnace so dust is a problem.  The poly gel seems to help eliminate a lot of that particular curse.

   Thanks,

   Fred