Replies

1. 
   GLASTARZA | Dec 31, 2008 05:59pm | #1

   Hello,

   Thanks for your question.

   I found an article about setting up a shop:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011100058.pdf

   There is a lot of info in this story that may be helpful to you, but here is a section that specifically deals with hand tools:

   While you may not think of it as a hand

   tool, the workbench is where most of your

   handwork takes place. It may well be your

   single most important tool. A good workbench

   should have a flat top, be sturdy

   enough to take a pounding and not wobble.

   The bench should also have both tail

   vise and shoulder vise or the equivalent. If

   you can't afford to buy a good European

   workbench (about $1,200), building your

   own bench should be one of the first projects

   for your new shop. You can find the

   bench hardware for about $115.

   I've found the following hand tools to be

   indispensable. I've explained briefly what

   each is used for as well as what you should

   expect to pay for a good tool, assuming

   you shop smart.

   Folding rule and a tape measure. My

   favorite measuring device is a 6-ft. Lufkin

   Red End carpenter's rule with extension

   slide. It's durable, handy and accurate. $18

   (for the folding rule) and $ 14 (for the tape).

   Square. I use several squares regularly:

   a 4-in. engineer's square, a 6-in. try square

   and a 10-in. try square. If I had to settle for

   only one square, it would probably be either

   a 10-in. or 12-in. try square. $25 (for a

   10-in. try square).

   Sliding T-bevel. Indispensable for marking

   out dovetails and angles. $14.

   Mat knife. For many purposes including

   marking out joinery. $4.

   Chisels. I recommend buying a set of

   durable, plastic-handled bench chisels,

   such as Marples Blue Chip, in sizes in.,

   in., in., in., in. and 1 in. $45.

   Shop

   environment

   A good shop environment is as

   important as which tools you buy.

   Adequate lighting is essential, and a

   window can help keep a small

   shop from feeling like a prison cell.

   One of my first workshops was a

   dark, 150-sq.-ft. concrete basement

   where I had to stoop to duck pipes

   and beams—it was depressing. My

   next shop was a one-car garage

   (200 sq. ft.), then a two-car garage

   (400 sq. ft.), then a storefront in

   New York's Little Italy (250 sq. ft.)

   and, at last, a l,200-sq.-ft. loft in an

   old factory. Based on experience,

   I'd say the smallest comfortable

   size for a woodshop is 400 sq. ft.,

   although I would choose to make

   furniture in a smaller space rather

   than not at all. —P.K.

   Handplanes. The first two I'd get are a

   block plane and a jack plane. The block

   plane is for planing joints flush, planing

   across end grain, fairing convex curves,

   and breaking edges. The jack plane is for

   flattening wide roughsawn lumber and for

   smoothing machined surfaces. $45 (block

   plane) and $73 (jack plane).

   Marking and mortising gauges (or a

   combination gauge). For marking mortises,

   tenons, dovetail shoulders and for

   marking stock to be resawn. $34 (for a

   combination gauge).

   Hand scraper. For smoothing surfaces.

   Sandvik makes the best. $7.

   Hacksaw. For cutting joinery. I use a

   small, inexpensive saw with a 10 in. by

   in. blade. Its 21 tiny teeth per inch leave

   a very thin kerf. $13.

   Coping saw. For removing waste when

   cutting dovetails and for sawing interior

   curves. $14.

   Awl. For marking pilot holes. $7.

   Wooden mallet. For driving chisels. $14.

   Hammer. For a multitude of uses. $ 16.

   Twist drill bits. From in. to in., by

   64ths. $48.

   Brad-point bits. From in. to in. by

   l6ths, plus in. and in. $40.

   Half-round rasp and wood file. For

   smoothing curves and shaping edges.

   $16 and $14.

   Mill bastard file, 8 in. For scraper

   preparation and for odd bits of metal

   filing. $6.

   Water stones, 1,000-grit and 6,000-grit.

   For sharpening chisels and plane blades.

   $47 for the pair.

   Clamps. I recommend buying six -in.

   C-clamps, six 12-in. quick-action clamps,

   six 24-in. quick-action clamps, and six 4-ft.

   bar clamps. About $275.

   Although $6,500 or so (a rough total) may

   seem like a lot of money now, it is almost

   a negligible sum when amortized over a

   lifetime of pleasure, productivity and value.

   Buying good tools to start with and

   making sure that they're the right tools for

   the job, will get you off to a good beginning

   on your career as a craftsman.

    

   Sincerely,
   Gerald La Starza
   Fine Woodworking

1. 
   GaySafariShorts | Jan 01, 2009 10:02am | #2

   The reason that I ask this question is that I don't have much money to start with. So if I get things like planes and saws I would still able to work on boxes to get started. I do have a 3 hp Tablesaw, and soon a compund miter. I was also wanting to know I could do a lot of things by hand if didn't get all the power tools? and maybe names of specilty tools.  What kind of water stones do you recmend to get?

    

   Edited 1/1/2009 2:04 am ET by GaySafariShorts

1. 
   GLASTARZA | Jan 01, 2009 09:34pm | #3

   Hi,
   What kind of projects do you plan to build? This will give us a better idea of what kind of cost-effective tools to recommend.

1. 
   GaySafariShorts | Jan 02, 2009 05:11am | #4

   I was going to start out with hand tools first untill I have the money for more power tools. So things like small boxes to get the jointing down. I have a list of tools but it does not seam like it is all of the tools for starting out by hand or with hand tools. I have a few plans for small boxes, and I Just want to make sure that I don't waste  money.

1. 
   GLASTARZA | Jan 05, 2009 08:16pm | #5

   Hi,

   If you are starting out, a good idea is to get used tools at places like flea markets or ebay. Here is a link to an article on that subject: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24969

   Chisels are essential for box making. Here is a link to an article on chisels: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=31061

   This chisel is cheap and it tested well:

   Narex: Best Value Western-Style.

   Here is a link to a video on sharpening flea market chisels:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28817

   Here is a link to an article on waterstones:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2901

   An inexpensive way to sharpen is with sandpaper and glass:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=25403

   If you want to get a waterstone, the Norton Combination Waterstone is good:

   http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=818264&FamilyID=4486

   I would also investigate some planes and dovetail saws for making boxes. I would start with cheaper tools and then take the plunge into the higher grade equipment when you want to get more serious.

   Best of luck,

   Gerald

    

    

2. 
   GaySafariShorts | Jan 06, 2009 02:10am | #6

   Thank You for all the Info.Todd