Remodeling kitchen with electric radiant heat in ceiling
I’m in the design phase of a kitchen remodel with electric radiant heat in ceiling. ( I’m not familiar with this type of system) The pent house condo has a flat roof and I was planning on putting can lights in the ceiling and running additional electrical wires for pendant lights and demoing a wall between the formal dining room and kitchen and putting a internal beam in the ceiling to replace the bearing wall so that it is a continuous ceiling without a beam showing.
1. Is this possible with this type of system?
2. If it is? what is the best way to proceed and who would be the best person to call a electrician or radiant heat guy?
3. Is this a expensive deal?
4. Is there a way to test where the wires are so I can mark out where they are so i can miss the wires to put the can lights in and pendant lights?
5. I realize the internal beam may not work for this so I know the best option would be a beam under the ceiling joist but if it can be done i would prefer it.
Sure hope some one here has ran into this before, I would like to hear your good and the bad stories and most importantly your advise.
Thanks Guy’s
Replies
Just a comment
I am very much an amateur, but I would think that this would not be a very energy efficient system. There would be almost no convexion of air over the heating elements. That's almost every heating system has the heating elements located near the floor of the room. So, you would likely have warm air floating near the ceiling and cool sitting by the floor.
-Eric
How Much Money Do You Want to Spend
Can we assume that you are dealing with wood construction? What you are asking to do have done, is to cut short each ceiling joist that bears on the wall you want removed and insert a beam up against the roof deck sheathing, catching each roof joist with joist hangers. Remember that you are shifting and concentrating loads that have to be carried somehow. At the end of the new beam you will need posts that are continuous, (blocked solid through floor assemblies) to the footings. Sure, it can be done. In the end, it might be cheaper to simply replace the entire roof structure.
Recessed cans, particularly in a kitchen can cause problems as moist air is drawn into the joist space where it condenses against the rim joist or the insulation stuffed into the rim joist or in your case the roof. Make sure the units you install are rated for being surrounded by insulation and that somehow you can get a vapor barrier around them. This is an issue. If you are in Florida, vapor issues can be turned around.
Radiant heat units in the ceiling seems backwards. I've seen them at a local college in classrooms, where they were only too happy to get rid of them. Heat rises. That's why most people place the heat source low. With the expense of a radiant heating system, wouldn't you rather have warm feet than the top of your head? If you're on the roof, what are you doing about cooling.
I'm pretty sure there are tests that can map out wire patterns, some sort of electro magnetic imaging (X ray's seem extreme). The way to find out is to call all a local testing company in the phone book.
In addition to the testing company it would be worth your money to consult with an architect and structural engineer. Kitchens and remodeling are expensive. A little advice from someone who is actually looking at your project and understands the issues will be far more valuable to you than all of us offering comments from afar.
Peter
turn the ceiling heat on and mist the ceiling with water from a spray bottle you will be able to see the wires where the water drys
it works pretty good
good uck
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